·
Friday, 30 June 2006
Dustinovsky visits….
The courtyard cat
I favor most has taken to morning visits on my kitchen windowsill. Perhaps the caged birds I perched there one
day are what finally drew him closer!
Discovering the terrorized parakeets cowering in the bottom of their
quarters and my grey-tiger-striped friend pressed up against the window glass,
I quickly learned to let the birds sun elsewhere!
Dusty, whose name
knows many variants from my lips, greets me each day as I open the kitchen
blinds. Last week some workmen piled
large building blocks just to the right of our kitchen window (..a project must
be ahead!). The pile effectively blocks
the circuit the tomcats usually followed each morning as they toured the
neighborhood, marking their turf and establishing themselves as the reigning
cat-kings and barons. Now the pile of
rocks affords my Dustinovsky an opportunity to perch on my windowsill. This pleases me since I have no cats in my
flat to make it feel like home.
My windowsill
companion rubs against the glass as I tap, tap, tap on it. He stretches and arches his back responding
as if I am actually making contact with his furry spine. We are a bit like prisoner and visitor with
our windowpane separating us.
The tall window
does not open enough for a creature to come in.
. It is hinged on the side and
when open, leans in a few inches, allowing some air (and some flying insects)
to enter from the upper reaches high above my head. I tease D-Cat by poking my fingertips
through the tiny space. He stands on his
hind legs and stretches as far as he can to bat at my wiggling fingertips.
I refrain from
offering the Dust-Devil a snack since it would encourage bad habits. This takes some discipline on my part because
I love to have him visit and a small snack would do much to reinforce his sense
of welcome.
My Small striped
friend watches me eat my cereal and sip my coffee. After a time, Dusty-Dude dives into the berry
patch under the window and races off to find other amusement, having
accomplished his mission, which seems to be to brighten my day.
Life is ephemeral…
Over my after
breakfast coffee (the one I often linger over after Mark is out the door for
the day) I read about tea kaiseki, a Japanese tea ceremony. The attention to detail is beyond any of my
personal experiences, but it appeals to me.
There is a
paradox, of course, because life is so brief, does one want to spend it focused
on details and minutiae? But of course
we know that life is “in the details” so of course there is some argument for
being attentive to them, finding joy, peace, nourishment for the soul and
heart..
I suspect it is
the being mindful of the details.
In the tea
ceremony, each choice is thoughtfully considered and the effort made to enhance the experience of the
guest(s). For the one making
preparations, this may be a labor of love, but I suppose it could involve pride
or disdain or even fear…but ideally it seems it would demand an unselfed love. Maybe even a sense of gratitude for the beauty
and abundance and for the opportunity to create and to serve.
It the book, the
author mentions that the carefully chosen flower arrangement that is among the
props for this simple, yet elegant tea, will be tossed aside. This gesture, this tossing aside of the
flowers, represents the ephemeral nature of life.
(The book, an
unexpected gift from my IL sister-in-law) that triggers these thoughts is
“Untangling my Chopsticks” by V.A. Riccardi)
·
Thursday, 29 June 2006
Cat-Woman has a name!
With hot weather
drawing people outdoors to catch a breeze, my opportunities to interact (or be
observed,) have increased. Today
Cat-Woman and I chatted for quite some time.
Despite huge language limitations, we manage to communicate. Today I asked her name: She is Dina.
Dina it is. But, for my purposes here she will always
remain Cat-Woman.
Summer in the gritty city by the sea…
Local people rise
early these days and head for the sea.
The passers-by carry straw tote bags and floaty toys. They return home from their morning bath in
the sea before 8AM.
There is no beach
adjacent to the city center where we live, so people merely step down of the
concrete walkway that parallels the sea.
Yes, there is an official bathing platform, but most people seem happy
simply to access the water from the
walkway. At the end of the park, in a
rather industrial setting near the ship depot, the pavement and grass areas are
littered with sun worshippers and idlers from 6AM till sunset.
If you prefer some
sand, board a bus and in about 20 minutes you can get to the sandy (albeit
littered) city beaches in the ‘burbs!
Many arrive in
ordinary clothes and then simply strip down to their underwear to take a
cooling dip. Matronly women, emerge from
the bushes clothed in industrial strength bras and panties and
unselfconsciously enjoy a quick swim.
These hot summer
mornings Cat-Woman and her granddaughter rendezvous at the sea for a daily dip
before returning to the courtyard to hang out with the cats and Poo-Doo Dog.
The cover is closed on Lolita…
I finished reading
V. Nabokov’s “Lolita” today. The writer
paints with words. Whether the topic is
appealing or appalling, his style and tine keep the reader rapt.
I also find myself
looking up words. Nabokov uses words
splendidly and there is a nuance to each that many writers overlook in their
efforts to tell a story. Nabokov’s
writing seems to be about the process, the joy of the flow as words tumble past
the reader’s (or the writer’s) eyes.
Of course when
this book was published in the early 1950s it was quite controversial, for a
number of reason, but one of them simply being the topic the writer chose to
write about. Nabokov indicates that the
topic is not intended to be moralistic or a lesson; there are no symbols; nor is
it autobiographical. He merely writes a tale that must be written.
Critics and
others, he says, simply read into his work.
Nabokov wrote this
book after a full lifetime of writing in his native Russian. He made an observation in the notes following
“Lolita” that those of us who cannot or do not red his work written in Russian
will never really know what kind of writer he is. His writing in English is so delightful and
filled with wit and nuance…
My cousin D. has
recommended “Reading Lolita in Tehran” (and I believe the CS Monitor also
recommended this book…I do not have the author’s name.). I believe this book explores the
repercussions of censorship. I have
added it to my list.
I am also eager to
read more of V. Nabokov’s work.
I am so grateful
for books. I cannot imagine what life
would be like without the printed word and my love of them.
·
Wednesday, 28 June 2006 – Ukrainian
Constitution Day
Birds of a feather…
The parakeets are
amusing themselves with an old CD Mark wedged into the corner of their cage.
They totally ignore the special toy I lovingly purchased to delight and
entertain them.
It is amusing to
watch them as they skitter back and forth across their perches, keeping their
eyes locked on the distorted images in the shiny plastic disk. They prance and
dance and scold and posture. They appear
to think the images are actually other birds.
A few local people
have expressed surprise that we are keeping two birds in one cage. The thought seems to be that birds do not
sing (mush less learn to speak) if they are housed together. (And really, do parakeets ever learn to
sing?)
Hmmm these birds
are like two native English speakers living together, I think. They are less likely to engage with outsiders
than say, one native English speaker, who must interact with the locals in
order to survive.
Of course, “birds
of a feather flock together… “
Our two parakeets
seem happy together. They are
companionable; grooming one another, chirping and cheeping and occasionally
scolding. The certainly are engaged with
the CD Mark gave them.
Plumbing problems…
Well, we had water
today – ah, how good it feels to have clean hair!
About
mid-afternoon I heard a strange sound. I jumped up from the couch and made my
way to the kitchen. . The sink spewed water and this unexpected
event was accompanied by a loud, high-pitched grinding sound. I stopped in the doorway, puzzled by the
sound. I was not sure exactly where it
was coming from. Mark was quick to
determine that the incoming water pipe had sprung a leak and under the sink
water was fountaining against the stored pots and pans, making them rattle like
popcorn popping in a metal pan.
Mark calmly turned
off the water and began clearing out the cabinet under the sink. I got out the mop and bucket. In a matter of moments, Mark headed off to
the local hardware store to purchase necessary parts while I continued on mop
detail. It is good to have someone handy
around. I try to imagine how this
incident would have become quite a fiasco if it had been I who had to resolve
the situation.
Well, on the
positive side, the area behind the sink and under the cabinet would get a good
cleaning. The new part is installed,
everything is back under the sink and the kitchen floor is drying.
Despite the
inconveniences, I am glad to have running water in my flat!
·
Tuesday, 27 June 2006
The past few days have been waterless. I
record this, not so much as a complaint, but simply as an unpleasant fact of
life. It is something we are learning to
deal with, just as others in our community do.
There is a
randomness about the outages, but perhaps there is a plan and we simply do not
get the word. Our language skills,
though improving steadily, sometimes affect the quality of our lives in
unexpected ways.
Summer work schedules and plans…
Mark’s days seem
longer now. He arrives at work at about
10AM and leaves at 6PM. Two evenings, he
goes directly to language tutoring and does not arrive at the flat until almost
8PM. Another evening each week, we have
English Club. The days can seem very
long for him (and for me).
Many of the PCVs
here in Ukraine teach or work in institutes,
schools, or universities. In
academic settings there are usually many school holidays and extended summer
breaks, so those PCVs seem to have more free time than those in business
settings. The PCVs in academic settings
often spend several weeks working at summer camps at various locations around
Ukraine.
I could have made
arrangements to volunteer at a summer camp.
It would be fun to interact with young people, but frankly, I worked at
Cadet Summer Leadership Camp with the JROTC program for several years, and the
appeal of chaperoning young people has worn off a bit.
The poet K. Gibran
says “…there should be spaces in your togetherness…” and so there shall
be. Mark will travel to Kiev on business
later this summer and I will remain here in our cozy nest. We bought he tickets yesterday.
I do not envy him
the hot, sticky train trip going and coming, but I would enjoy being in the
city during the summer. I will be on my
own for about a week.
I am stockpiling a
few projects and activities to keep my agenda stimulating during Mark’s
absence.
I have writing,
journaling, correspondence, and offline web site projects, an enticing new
novel to read, two knitting projects and several Russian decorator magazines to
explore. I have Christian Science Sentinels to read under a tree. I have my paints and my parakeets. I will visit the bazaar and the second-hand
stores. I will walk to the post office
each morning and stroll by the sea in the evening. I will take pictures. I will host English Club. I will probably eat cereal and yogurt, black
bread and butter and sip lots of coffee all week. I doubt I will access the Internet during
that week. I will daydream and
sleep. I will make plans and write
affirmations and aspirations. I will
paint my toenails. I will use alllll the
hot water. I may watch a sloppy sad old DVD;
I may turn up the radio really loud and sing along with it. I may pick up the guitar and sing old John
Denver songs! I might make a chocolate
mayonnaise cake with creamy chocolate frosting and eat it alllll by myself! We shall see.
I could even study Russian grammar!
I guess it will be
a small retreat, my summer vacation at home.
I will be happy to
have Mark return and he will have stories to share and books and small
treasures.
The (occasional) spaces
in our togetherness make us stronger.
·
Monday, 26 June 2006
African nights…
It has been hot and
with the heat, the community seems quieter by day and more lively at
night. Even the tables at the terrace
outside our window are empty on these hot summer mornings. In the past, they have been full at 8AM as
early morning anglers and swimmers return from the sea. Even the dogs that are usually out and about,
nosing around for treats, have been strangely absent the past few mornings. The streets are quiet. By 9AM it is already to hot for a comfortable
walk.
Along the sea,
there are breezes, but here in our flat it is warm. In the USA, air conditioners would be
rumbling, but here, AC is still a novelty.
(So are ice cubes and really cold drinks!) We purchased an oscillating
floor fan to circulate the air.
Saturday night, I
found myself awake at 3AM. In those
groggy moments before becoming fully cognizant, I thought I was in Africa.
The seeds for this
illusion were planted, no doubt, by the beat of the drums from the popular nightspot
in the nearby park. The rhythmic sounds
of drums, the thick night air, the humidity and perspiration that keeps my
bedclothes damp and clammy, and the gauzy, white mosquito netting fluttering in
the breezes simulated by our fan, created an ambience that to my slumbering
mind spelled Africa.
This morning Mark
put on his work costume, complete with necktie.
I am sure the tie is a bit of an anachronism here in this seaside,
summer city. The crazy Americans often
provide a topic of conversation for the local community.
The summer months
do bring a few tourists to our fair city.
Kerch is remote, isolated, so tourism is not developed. Most of the tourists seem to be related to
someone locally. Shiny vans arrive from
Russia. Pasty, white children and beach
toys spill out first and then the parents in their sophisticated sunglasses and
casual summer attire. They unload all
the paraphernalia that people who vacation with a car tend to tote along. Baby strollers, barbeques, blankets, etc.
Going to the local beach…
Sunday we hit the
hit the local beach for a picnic by the sea.
I enjoyed, as always, observing the nuances of Kerchian life and
learning about beach etiquette. A local
friend accompanied us on our adventure and provided additional interesting
insights as we sat talking and getting sunburned.
As at any beach,
people spread out their blankets and towels on the sand. Children in underwear and naked babies
splashed in the water and dug splendid holes in the sand while bikini-clad
women basked in the sun. The men
generally stood, rather than reclined. Groups of men, clad in tiny swimsuits (or
underwear), stood smoking and talking quietly.
There were men and
women of all ages and shapes, and there seemed to be no self-consciousness
about physique. Rotund grandmothers and
lithe, young bathing beauties recline side-by-side, soaking up the golden sun.
People arrived
fully dressed and well groomed and coiffed.
As is typical here, many of the women looked as though they had come
from a cocktail party or some other festive event, but after more than a year
in this country, I am aware that this is probably not the case. It is more a “wear it if you’ve got it” kind
of attitude. We are only young and
beautiful once so indulge! So the women
arrive in high heeled, glittering sandals and amazing summer sun dresses that
clearly announce their arrival!
Once at the beach,
the men and women have developed ways of discreetly (or not so discreetly) changing
into their skimpy swimwear. There are a few metal cabanas along the beach (I
saw two or three) where a more modest person can change. When it is time to leave after several hours
of sweating in the sun and sand, the women managed to put on their street
clothes, comb their locks, touch up their lipstick and look as elegant, cool
and collected as they did when they arrived.
In my American
beach experiences there are often coolers filled with beer and sodas and people
bring along radios and beach chairs.
These things were not obvious, though we observed a game of volleyball.
I did not observe
anyone applying sunscreen or tanning products.
Sunbathers did not
seem to read or nap. They merely
reclined or stood and watched the world go by.
Three things that were
missing from my local beach experience: life guards, toilets and trashcans.
Our local friend
was apologetic about a few things. We
did not remark about any of these things, but our friend was sensitive to the
amounts of trash left behind by others.
It is true, under the lovely olive trees and in the beach grass were the
remnants of many previous picnics…the broken bottles, paper refuse and other
trash littered the area. In the absence
of official toilets, this was another issue that detracts from the experience.
At well touristed
beaches such as those in mainstream Crimea, the rubbish and toilet situation
are addressed. The beaches in places
like Yalta, are well maintained because there are economic repercussions. Those beach communities have a better-developed
tourism economy. Outsiders have influenced them.
Here, in our isolated
community, it is generally the locals who populate the beaches and not
tourists. One might think this would
lead to a cleaner beach, but somehow this is not how it works.
Our day by the sea
was pleasant. We came away with
sunburned skin, which will remind us for several days of our weekend excursion.
·
Saturday, 24 June 2006
Flat (Fat) Babushkas….
I packed up all
the Flat Stanleys and Mark sent them off to various locations around
Ukraine. I could not bear to send them
off alone so I sent along a Flat (Fat) Babushka (Grandma) with each
envelope.
A Flat (Fat) Baba
will be helpful to the hosts caring for these Flat guys. Since our courtyard has so many cats and
kittens this time of year, I also sent a Flat Cat with each Flat Stanley.
Mark just shakes
his head as he watches me sitting on our Soviet-era sofa, coloring away. I really enjoyed making the Babas and the
cats.
I hope none of the
recipients takes offense at the Babas. I
am just poking gentle fun at these delightful older women who still wear bright
headscarves knotted under their chins and colorful shawls around their
shoulders. They look stout in their
shapeless garments and when I glimpse one walking away, I always am reminded of
a colorful Easter Egg.
What can be more
Ukrainian (or charming) than a Babushka and her cat(s)?
Both are
everywhere. I love to see them.
At the local
bazaar, there are always dozens of them there, each selling some special item
and socializing the entire time.
Near the gates, there
are large groups of colorfully garbed Babas perched on stools, selling
sunflower seeds by the cup. People stop
and sample seeds, talk to the women and for a few kopeks, walk away crunching
on a handful of seeds. Cats wind around
the Babas legs and the ground around them is littered with the husks of all the
seeds the women consume as they laugh and gossip the day away.
I wonder if the
seeds and the selling are just incidental?
There are many
other Babushkas in the bazaar; there are those selling spice or those selling
the delicious pickled salads. Then there
are a special group who sell milk products.
I would happily accompany any of these women home to their country dacha
and watch them lovingly tend their cows.
The traditional
Babushka will probably not be around much longer. This is sad.
The younger generations of Grandmothers wear jeans, color their hair and
never don a headscarf except perhaps for a visit to church.
I would like to
take photographs of the Babushkas. They
are beautiful and their faces show integrity; their character and good humor
shine through. Their colorful clothes
are a statement about what is important in life.
I am too shy to
point my camera at them. So, I must be
content to simply steal long glances at them and try to burn the images into my
memory…
So, the Flat
Stanleys are gone, but I look forward to their return in a few weeks. I will read through their journals and then
pack them off to the USA where the students in a Chicago area school will be
glad to see them arrive home.
(FYI: I am making
paper t-shirts for each Stanley as a souvenir of their trip to Ukraine…Yes,
Mark is shaking his head…but he is also laughing!)
NOTE: I will post some photos of my Flat (Fat)
Baba’s and some of the Flat Cats along with the other Flat Stanley stuff…look
on our photo pages in a couple weeks.
·
Friday, 23 June 2006
There are days that are simply nice.
Nice, of course,
is high praise, as anyone from the Midwest of the USA knows. Paraphrasing the
old saying, you can take the woman out of the Midwest, but you can’t take the
Midwest out of the woman. So, yes, my
Midwestern heart and spirit speaks volumes when I say today has been nice.
There is no way to
pinpoint exactly what it is that makes some days just so, …well,…nice. I am inclined to use the word pleasant (I
have not been a resident Midwesterner for many years, so I tend to be a bit
extravagant with my praise!).
The day stated out
with a vague notion of what was ahead.
We had made some kind of agreement with our landlady to be at home. We thought our landlady would be visiting on
some kind of business. This is all a bit
vague because we were dealing with the Russian language when the arrangements
were made. You really do learn a lot
about being flexible and not sweating the small stuff when you have limited
language skills – it is also good for teaching what faith really means…but I
digress! Anyway, we had to stay home.
Those rather
shapeless days when you must hang around the house, waiting for whatever it is
you must wait for, can be quite challenging, especially if you have a type-A
side that wakens and roars from time to time.
Today, however,
just seemed to flow along. Things
unfolded in the most pleasing way. (This
is the day the singer referred to in the song “Time in a Bottle” or when another
singer (John Denver) sang “…I’d give to you a day just like today…”.
Nothing special happened. The day was just nice.
We had our usual
breakfast and lingered over coffee. We
drifted into a few small household tasks and later found ourselves unexpectedly
transplanting tomatoes into the garden and repotting some plants. We played with the neighborhood cats and
spent some minutes discussing our parakeets, did some more small domestics
tasks. Other projects unfolded
pleasantly as the day passed.
We forgot that we were
waiting. We simply enjoyed a quiet day
at home.
The landlady never
did come today, but we really had a nice day.
·
Wednesday 20 June 2006
OK, I am here to vent.
That is not the
purpose of this forum, but here I am venting anyway.
I spent a couple
hours working on a PowerPoint Show about the Flat Stanley Project I am
coordinating. I am having a pretty good
time with this, but some of the stuff I want to do is time consuming.
In any case, today
I spent a couple hours of his fine sunny day basically editing…not doing the
fun creative stuff, but the boring parts that involve attention to detail, etc….OK,
I am sure you can almost hear the whining in my voice even though I am typing
this.
Yep, you guessed
it – the computer locked up. Grrrrr.
By the time I
opened the restored document, I was, back where I started a few hours ago…not
sure what happened to the interim data…my system is supposed to save
intermittently and I am a fanatic about hitting the save key often. Oh well, I am back to where I started.
Big sigh.
I decided that
this is a sign – I should stop looking at the screen and move onto something
else.
Well, obviously
here I am, venting…
OK, I am out of
here…I guess I will take the Flat Stanley crew out for some fresh air, fun and
maybe some photographs!
·
Monday, 19 June 2006
More Houseguests…
Sweet-Cheeps and
the Blue-Bird-of-Happiness, our latest houseguests, chatter companionably on my
windowsill as I sit down to put thoughts on paper. These two parakeets, their wooden cage, and
an assortment of bird necessities came home with us from the Bazaar yesterday,
all for less than $20. Ever since their
arrival, I can hardly take a break from watching these amusing and colorful
creatures.
They need names that
are more suitable but until something seems quite right, I refer to the green
and yellow talkative girl as Sweet-Cheeps.
She whistles and peeps, cheeps and chatters steadily while the other
bird, Blue-Bird–of-Happiness, listens patiently, occasionally stretching out his
leg and wing resembling a kick boxer about to attack.
My spouse
professes that he does not much care for birds as pets or otherwise, but
already I have overheard him speaking to my little feathered friends. They are quite appealing – lots of
personality in a small, feathered package.
Summer Solstice…
In a Crimean guidebook,
I read that this area is exactly half-way between the North Pole and the
Equator. Soon the Summer Solstice will
be here, bringing with it the longest day of the year – here in Kerch there
will be 18 hours of daylight on the 22nd.
For those of us
from the USA, the Solstice marks the official start of summer. Here in Ukraine, summer begins officially 1
June and ends the last day of August.
In September, during
the Equinox, the length of our days and nights will be equal and the days will
continue to become shorter. I have
always been fond of the quality of light in the autumn, but now that I live by
the sea, I find the morning light that wakens us to each new day to be splendid. I suspect I will be sorry to see them dwindle
down as Fall rolls by.
My animated
houseguests will be fine companions in the short dark days of Fall and Winter!
·
Saturday, 17 June 2006
Cat Update…
The mom cat in our
yard has moved her kittens (Socks and Oscar) back to the roof top. She wisely decided to evacuate her family,
when another mother cat arrived at the Cat Condo (a wooden crate Catwoman
placed in my yard) with a very sick, tiny kitten.
Catwoman discovered
the sick kitten and did her best to nurse it back to health. She fed him with an eye-dropper and swaddled
the tiny creature in a soft rag. Sadly
though, the little cat died.
The bereaved mother
cat is quite forlorn. She has lost both
her kittens in a short time. She
responds to the cries of Socks and Oscar as she might to her own kittens. I see her wailing piteously and staring up at
the two healthy kittens as they peer down at her.
American Television Shows on Crimean TV
The TV that came
with our flat is old and barely functional (like Ivan, our refrigerator, it has
odd habits.) still I sometimes flip it on.
While the picture leaves much to be desired, the soundtrack works pretty
well once you hook it up to external speakers.
(My “geek” husband discovered this a few months ago when another PCV
abandoned some decent speakers when he left to resume life in America…can’t
take it all with you when you leave!)
So, some days I
turn on the tube.
As in America,
there are many re-runs on Ukrainian TV.
They are typically vacuous sit-coms.
It is amusing to try to follow along as they fire of funny line in
Russian or Ukrainian. Plot lines are not
so different ere as they are in the USA.
Some of the
programs are just reworked versions of shows I have watched – blatant
copies. For example, you can watch a
version of the Nanny and there is a version of Grace Under Fire and Who’s the
Boss. The characters and settings
resemble their North American counterparts so there is a quirky feeling when I
view these shows.
I am more surprised
at how many American programs are simply dubbed over and aired. Desperate Housewives is quite popular,
Charmed, Sabrina, Friends, and I saw 90210 once! The Russian or Ukrainian voice-overs obscure
the English speakers, but it is not hard to follow the story line and as my
Russian improves, it becomes even easier.
If you are hungry
for junk TV, this satisfies!
·
Friday, 16 June 2006
Colorful,
beribboned wreaths lean against the neighbor’s front door and on the sidewalk a
red casket is resting on the ground.
The 93-year old
woman next door is dead and seems to stare up at the blue Crimean sky from the
open casket where she reclines. A small
gathering of family and friends sit on kitchen chairs assembled around the
casket. Clean laundry hanging on a line
under the trees snaps in the breeze nearby as people gather to pay their
respects to the dead woman.
Ten feet from my
kitchen window, this is the scene that played out yesterday morning.
I try not to be
obvious as I sneak peeks from my window.
How strange it
seems to me. How absurd.
I sit on the couch
and from the other window, I hear the sounds of raunchy rock and roll playing
on a car radio in front of the local mom/pop store. A few patrons are joking and laughing over vodka
shots. They are oblivious to the sad
ceremony playing out in the courtyard, just a dozen meters away.
I close the
window, hoping to block out the rock and roll.
I glance out the
kitchen window at the small group gathered around the casket, sweating in the
summer sun. Men stand under the trees
smoking and looking uncomfortable. A few
younger men have spread handkerchiefs on the steps to the flat and sit there
quietly, watching, waiting.
In my garden,
adjacent to the funeral site, sits a dirty wooden box, where a mother cat nests
with her kittens.
I feel
trapped. I cannot go into my small
kitchen without being visible by the mourners.
I finally summon the courage (or prove my cowardice) and move to pull
the kitchen blinds as surreptitiously as I can.
I cannot do
it.
Just moving the
few feet to the window is too difficult.
They would see me no matter how discreet I try to be.
How long will they
remain gathered around body of their dead friend? I slink back to the couch and sit, restlessly
tapping my foot.
I wonder what is
my obligation to this deceased woman (whom I have never met) and her family and
friends (whom I have also never met)?
I toy with donning
a suitable dress and venturing out to share a few words of condolence, but I am
a coward. I try to imagine iterating the
difficult, convoluted Russian words and know that under pressure, I would fail
miserably.
In my heart, I
know it is not the words that matter; it is simply the presence, the caring.
I
rationalize. If I joined them in the
courtyard, I may be seen as even more of a voyeur and certainly as an
interloper. It is better to leave them
alone with their grief.
So many things are
complicated by language and culture; even such a profound thing as dealing with
death and dying.
I hear Spot, the
courtyard dog, barking. No one moves to
silence him. I can still hear the
backbeat of rock and roll. I hear no
other sounds.
It all seems
incongruous.
A crow caws from
high in the cottonwood tree.
I think about how
we deal, or do not deal with death in the USA.
The procedures are so sanitized, devoid of life, apart from life. It has always somehow seemed wrong. We seem to distance ourselves from death
rather than acknowledging it and then moving on. In our fear and denial, we lose the
opportunity to feel, to be tender, to weave the experience into the day to day
events that comprise life.
What I see here
today, in the courtyard of my cozy Crimean flat, is that death is part of
life. Mourning people we love and lose,
is a fact of life.
A large van and a
bus arrive. The casket is carried to the
van and all the bouquets and wreaths are placed alongside it.
Even as the
mourners board the bus, a neighbor woman emerges in a housedress and slippers
takes her laundry from the line. Spot
barks at her.
One woman has
died, but life goes on.
·
Thursday, 15 June 2006
Life and Death and the View from our Window
Just moments ago,
the floral wreaths arrived. I can see
them from the window where our cell phone lives (the only place in our flat
with good reception). The floral
deliveries confirm my suspicion; the elderly woman next door has died.
One of the tiny kittens
we have enjoyed watching through that same window also died this morning
Our morning
started out with life though. The phone
on the windowsill rang around 7 AM and we answered to hear the happy news that
a new niece has joined our family circle.
Far, far away, dark-haired Tabitha Elizabeth is delighting her new
parents with that sweet baby smell and the gentle cooing sounds of a newborn
bonding with parents. What a joy.
I stand in the
window listening to the details about the birth while just a few feet away on
the other side of the glass I see people making preparations for a wake. I also
see a forlorn mother cat standing watch near a dead kitten.
After I hang up
the phone, I pour some coffee and think about death and dying and birth. I look out our other window which opens on
the opposite side of the building. There
I see our canine friends; whit-Dog and Black-Dog are making their rounds,
foraging for food and affection. White-Dog
has recently had a litter and is happy to be out and about. The regular passers-by share snacks with he
two dogs and there is head scratching and there are smiles. I am eager to see the puppies.
Life and death…so
little space separates them.
No Water Today...
·
Tuesday, 13 June 2006 – Moriah & Chip’s
Anniversary!
We woke to a power outage today.
By 9 the power was
back on. Outside it is bright and
beautiful, but in our flat we are cool and the kitchen and main room are a bit
dim. As summer heats up, we will
appreciate this more. The morning sun,
rising over the Black Sea, bathes the sleeping area with light so it is hard to
stay abed past 0530 anymore.
I am storing up
this solar energy for the winter days that will return in just a few months.
Fleas…
Sigh, I think Mom
cat and her kits (Oscar and Socks) and their various aunts, uncles and cousins
may be the bearers of fleas. I noticed
last night that I feel a bit itchy and scratchy. I cannot see any tiny bugs dancing on my
skin, but I am pretty sure a few fleas have managed to make it into the flat.
With the arrival
of the kittens in my very own garden, I am prompted to become more involved in
their upbringing than I might otherwise be.
Since they are just outside my window, I can easily intervene when
intruder dogs and thug cats arrive and create anxiety for the feline
family. I can also slip handfuls of
auxiliary cat chow into the feeding dish Cat-Woman has kindly placed next to
the wooden crate she contributed to house the family. (During the afternoon rainstorm, a large
plastic bag was added to the box to ward off some of the rain from their nursery.)
Autonomy…My Plans for the Day…
After a
happily-lazy, extended-weekend with no organized agenda, Mark is hard at work
at the Library (the conference people arrive tomorrow!) and I am at home trying
to find a direction for my energy.
I love the
autonomy I have in my life these days.
I spent many years
in environments that required considerable drive and ambition as well as some
creativity so I am schooled to move forward on things with little or no
supervision or interaction. I am
grateful for the opportunity to hone those skills. I am able to generate stimulating and
engaging activities that generally have enough purpose to make me feel as if I
am contributing to larger matters. I
also have a rich inner life to amuse myself with! I am pretty well suited to the situation I
find myself in.
It is nice to be
in a happy place in life.
Of course there
are days when it seems harder to move forward on any of the projects I rather
randomly commit to. The constraints of
language and budget temper some of my inclinations and keep me a bit closer to
home, (I say that, but really in my SC
sabbatical year following our son’s death, I did not find myself driven outside
my own turf much, except for the daily dog-walking with Miss Zoe – I wish Miss
Zoe were here actually. A canine
companion would be an excellent bridge to the community and a fine companion
and fitness partner too!)
It is a skill to
simply relax and enjoy the moment – I can hear an old Shaker song playing in my
head…something about it is a gift to lead a simple life…
I sometimes think
people fill their lives with activity that makes them feel needed, important,
and useful, but these very activities keep them from actually experiencing
life…Sometimes ambiguity scares them too.
On that note, I
will brave the fleas and head outdoors to enjoy the glorious sunshine on my
skin as I relax and observe the feline family that blesses my life these summer
days.
·
Monday, 12 June 2006
Some Flat Stanley Logistics…
Today is a holiday
here in Ukraine so the library is closed.
Mark and I are taking advantage of the time off from work to organize
things for our 21 house guests (Flat Stanley X 21).
First and foremost
is arranging for host families for the Stanleys. An e-mail will go out (when we can get online
to send) soliciting volunteers to house and sponsor the little guys.
We are using
technology to help us with some of the fun parts of having so many Flat Stanleys
visit. We will be sending individual
Flat Stanley’s to various friends (mostly PCVs) here in Ukraine, but before we
mail them off for the next leg of their adventure, we are taking individual photographs
of each Stanley plus an individual photograph of each journal. (Yes, we splurged a bit and bought a journal
for each Stanley (about 10-20 cents each for 18 page notebooks) to chronicle
some of their stories in.) Mark is busy at his computer eliminating the
background on each photo. Once that is
accomplished, we can insert all 21 Flat Stanleys into existing photos of
various sites around our fair city.
Ahhh, the magic of
computers and digital editing!
I have been
“helping” each Stanley to write a little in their individual journals each
day. This is a large chore, since, like
all kids, this crowd of Flat Stanley’s is eager to swim in the sea and play in
the park and enjoy vacation rather than to write in a journal each day! I hope that when the Flat Stanleys are
separated and at home with their individual hosts they will write more about
their impressions of life here in Ukraine.
(Hosts, if you are reading this, I hope you will take the initiative!)
When the Flat
Stanley’s return to Kerch later this summer, I hope their journals will be full
of photos, drawings, stories and memorabilia that they can share with their
friends back in Chicago.
I may prepare a
PowerPoint Show for my cousin to share in her classroom and we will post it on
our website…down the road a bit!
This project has
caught my imagination and I plan to enjoy myself as much as possible. I hope others also find it fun an rewarding
too.
Courtyard Animal Update
White-Dog and her
constant companion, Black-Dog, are out and about today. She seems to have a bounce in her step and it
is clear she has had her pups. The
puppies are probably nested somewhere safe, maybe even in someone’s flat. In a few weeks they will no doubt make their
appearance.
White Dog looks
fit and trim. She is trotting about
happily, tail high and ears perked. She
is a proud mother. Black Dog sticks
close to her and is ever the attentive male.
I enjoy watching them as they press customers of the local store for
snacks and affection.
In other animal
news, the mother cat and her two kittens are still in my yard. A cat-condo of sorts has appeared. Cat-Woman placed a large wooden box lined
with a blanket under the narrow bench by our fence. Mom and kits are at home and getting
accustomed to our comings and goings.
Mom eyes us a bit
nervously, but she associates me with intermittent handfuls of delicious kitten
chow, which I dole out on occasion.
Cat_Woman, as usual, provides the constant nutritionally sound, daily
rations of fish and rice for all the courtyard cats and she brings milk and
medication to the Mom and babies.
·
Sunday, 11 June 2006 – Full Moon Tonight!
The bazaar is
crowded with happy shoppers today. After
several days of rainy weather the sun is bold and bright and the venders were
out in full force. It feels good to be
out in the warm sunshine. The shoppers,
as they often do, look like they are on a fashion runway rather than just
making routine purchases. Sunday at the
bazaar is a social occasion so people dress up a bit.
Second Hand Clothes…
I arrived here in
Kerch at the tail end of summer so my wardrobe needs some additions to keep me
comfortable. On our Peace Corps budget (about
$10 a day, which is pretty consistent with what our peers in this community earn) I find it wise to check out the second
hand venders, rater than splurge on full price garments. The average income here is about $190-200 a
month so money management is a good skill to cultivate.
I poke through a
pile of rather damp clothes and immediately find a rayon, black print skirt
with a Laura Ashley label (verrrrrrry expensive when new). The skirt appears to never have been worn and
there are no signs of damage, though it is really wrinkled and in need of a
bath. It is marked at a bargain proce of
4 Hryvnia (about 80 cents)! New it would
probably be about $50-$80 back in the USA!
I pull out two
white shirts – one is a tank shirt that fits like a glove and will span
occasions from casual to work and the other shirt will make a great camisole or
a shirt for wearing on overnight train rides during the hot, humid, summer
months. I am sure these items will look
great once they are washed and pressed.
I am very happy
with my wardrobe purchases which totaled about $2.
I keep my eyes
open and have found many second hand shops and venders in my travels around
Ukraine. My wardrobe looks quite nice
and I have very little cash tied up in it.
Grocery Shopping…
We wandered
through the vendors selecting cheese and pickled salads, fresh bread and
veggies. I picked up some fabric to make
bright dish towels and napkins for our cozy kitchen. I visit the people selling baby chicks,
ducks, geese and rabbits. We consider
buying plants and decide not to.
We make some
purchases from the paper venders. We
stroll along under the willow trees along the canal and look at the wares the
old people have spread out on blankets to sell.
Many of them ae playing chess or backgammon. We stop for coffee at an outdoor café ad
watch frogs playing leap-frog in the canal.
Soon the morning
is gone and we head wearily back to our flat across town, the mid-day sun
beating down on our backs as we move slowly along.
Cats in the Yard…
A delightful
surprise awaits me as we walk up to the front door – just inside our fenced
garden, the mother cat and her two baby kittens are nestled together. Three pair of eyes stare up at us as we stand
gaping back at them. The kittens are
adorable and Mama seems comfortable with us.
I am delighted to have a kitten family right outside my kitchen
window.
How did they get
here? This is the little cat family that
was previously living on the roof-top next door. I will never know for sure how they made
their move, but I am happy to have them as tenants.
Guess I may have
to invest is a few boxes of cat chow!
·
Saturday, 10 June 2006
We have 21 unexpected house guests!
The other day we
received a large unexpected manila envelope from my cousin in Chicago. I unceremoniously ripped it open and out came
21 Flat Stanleys eager to stretch their legs after their long trip inside the
cramped envelope!
Sometime back in
the cold grey winter months I mentioned the Flat Stanley Project on our family
e-mail newsgroup, but nothing came of it.
That is until now. I guess the
seeds planted are coming to fruition and what fun it will be!
Mark and I will be
playing host to these various Flat Stanleys for a few days. We will show them around our community and
take some photos, help them get some notes down in their journals, etc.
In a few days we
will send each of them off to another Peace Corps Volunteer somewhere in
Ukraine where they will have a chance to learn more about life here in this
lovely country. Eventually the 21 will
reassemble back here at our place. We
will bundle hem all up and send them happily back to Chicago in time for the
start of the school year. They will have
lots of adventures to share with their ten year old friends who sent them off
on this trip in the first place.
(Visit the
official Flat Stanley Project site if you want to know more - there are some great photos and stories
there. www.flatstanley.com )
More later…I have
21 guests to attend to! Thank goodness
they are made of paper!
E-Mail Excerpt:
Anyone who lives in Ukraine for a
while knows how important flowers are...not just the type, number but the color
too! Check out the story below! 8-)
Ginn
On a Sunny Day in Crimea
UKRAINE GREETED AT WORLD CUP
WITH FLOWERS OF FAREWELL
Associated Press (AP), Berlin, Germany,
Sat, June 10, 2006
BERLIN - Andriy Shevchenko and his teammates were greeted with yellow
roses - a bad omen - when they arrived at the World Cup on Friday.
In Ukraine, where flowers and their color send very specific messages,
yellow roses mean goodbye and are considered an ill omen. "Oh no!" a
Ukrainian journalist said upon seeing the yellow roses at the airport.
"They
only just arrived and the flowers are saying goodbye."
Ukraine, which is making its first appearance at the World Cup, touched
down
at Tegel airport on the day host Germany opened the tournament by playing
Costa Rica.
"Ukraine are the last team to arrive at the World Cup. I hope they will be
the last team to leave," said Igor Dolgov, Ukraine's ambassador to
Germany.
"Everything is possible. At World Cup, all participants are strong and
chances of all are rather high.
"We have very high motivation and the composition of Ukraine's group is
rather favorable for us so I believe for sure we will play in the next
stages."
Disembarking from the plane, Shevchenko and coach Oleg Blokhin were
immediately handed plump bouquets of yellow roses interspersed with small
blue flowers, representing the colors of the nation's flag.
Offering flowers in Ukraine can be a culture trap, as their number, color
and type all bear a special meaning and little margin of error is allowed.
White flowers represent innocence and red symbolizes victory and patriotism.
An even number of flowers is for funerals only - though this does not apply
in a mixed bouquet - and more than nine flowers signifies a serious romantic
feelings. Roses, lilies and carnations are traditionally used to express
sympathy or condolence.
But Dolgov
dismissed the apparent blunder. "It's a very nice symbolic
gesture because it's the colors of Ukrainian national flag and so it's
absolutely in full compliance with old protocol traditions," he said with
a
smile, adding that a private ceremony at the team's hotel in Potsdam would
stick more closely to tradition, with bread and salt offered to players and
team officials.
"Bread and salt is symbolic of hospitality, welcome, that you are a
desired
guest and everybody was waiting for you and will be helpful and friendly,"
Dolgov said. "It's a very, very old tradition."…
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
·
Friday, 9 June 2006
Let there be music…
On the walk back
from my afternoon at the library, I heard the sounds of a brass band. We quickened our pace and when we turned the
corner in front of the Pushkin Theater, I broke out into a smile. There, seated on folding chairs was a rather
motley looking group of musicians happily blasting out a traditional march
tune.
The Friday
afternoon crowds were thin since rainy weather and winds were rushing people to
hurry on home. Mark and I chose to stop
and listen. A few stalwart music fans
sat on park benches sheltered by conifers.
A few sipped bottles of beer as they sat listening, toes tapping.
I could not help
but think of my delightful oldest sister back in the USA – she’s a trombone
player in the circus band. Could anyone
have a better role model than that?
My folks met and
courted at the weekly band concerts back in small town Iowa…
As rain threatened
and some cold drops splashed on the faces of the musicians, they continued to
follow the direction of their leader.
After the march came a bit of swing music. I wish I could actually dance and dazzle the
locals with some fancy footwork.
Instead, I just smiled even more and clapped appreciatively when the
number ended. Not many folks joined in
the clapping. I guess applause may be a
cultural thing.
What a
delight…unexpected music on a cold and rainy day. It does not get any better than this!
·
Thursday, 8 June 2006
The day started
out grey and became greyer.
Rain pummels the
streets and rooftops; thunder rumbles sonorously; the light above my head
flickers intermittently. Sheets of rain
obscure the view from my two opposing windows.
My cowboy husband
headed off to the library only moments ago, before the promise of rain became a
threat and finally a reality. I wonder
if he arrived at his destination before this impressive storm drenched him.
The rolling
thunder that has been purring like a big cat is now punctuated with cracks that
sound like gunfire. My body responds to
it – my breathing becomes shallow and I jump even though I know it is only
thunder and lightening.
The echoes are loud. The clashing and crescendo are intermittent,
unpredictable. Each crash is
unexpected. My body responds as if it is
a physical assault.
As I write, the
thunder and lightening becomes more violent.
I have never heard such sounds. I cover my ears.
I expect to see
flashes accompanying this crashing lightening, but they are not evident.
I pause to look
out the window.
The street out
front is a river flowing down to the sea, a block away. Stretched out in the middle of the flooded
cross street, I see one of the neighborhood cats. The animal is dead, or dying.
I wonder about the
young kittens nested on the neighbor’s flat rooftop. Perhaps their mother toted them off to safety
before the storm struck.
I wonder if the
dead cat in the street is the mother.
Usually, I find
storms invigorating or exciting. In
South Carolina where summer storms are also violent, I often stood in the
shelter of our porch breathing in the sweetness of the rain and getting my feet
wet as the wind blew drops across the tiles.
Miss Zoë, our dog
back in South Carolina, was not fond of thunderstorms. She would stay close to me and would throw
back her head, wailing mournfully as only a Siberian Husky can.
In this, my first
Kerchian thunder storm, I feel like howling myself!
·
Wednesday, 7 June 2006
Summertime and the Living is Easy…
Early in the day,
fishermen stroll home with their gear and people in bathing suits walk to and
from the sea. I can see the water
glistening at the end of our street. The
trees are lush and green.
Just weeks ago it
was still cold and I could see the top of Mitridate Mount through the window by
Mark’s desk. Now sunlight dapples
through the green and dances on the pavement.
The street is shady. Foliage
obscures the view. My field of vision
narrows to things closer at hand.
By 8 AM, umbrellas
are up at the outside tables on the terrace that is adjacent to our window. The three tables are filled with people
lounging, sipping beer or drinking vodka shots.
People in casual clothes stroll out of the store with ice cream bars and
sodas.
My laundry has
been on the line since before 7 AM. Six
white t-shirts span the clothesline, warming in the sun, soaking up the smell
of summer.
The morning hours here
are like a beautiful dream. If I were a painter,
I would try to capture the look, the feel, the ethereal quality of these fine
summer days. I store up their feel to
all back on the memory when the cold winter winds are blowing.
Puppies…
White Dog, as Mark
pointed out to me, is going to have another litter. A few weeks ago, she was still lean and
limber. Now her belly bulges and she
rests stretched out on her side, tongue hanging out. She looks uncomfortable.
I wonder where her
last litter has gone. They disappeared
weeks ago. Other neighborhood dogs are
missing too. My thoughts return to the brutal
scenes we witnessed during our initial training days last year when we
witnessed a purge. Local authorities
here may have eliminated some of the animal population.
English Club Tonight…
Topic: Marriage –
what makes a good marriage; what makes a bad marriage; should people divorce;
etc…
This should make
excellent conversation. I read an
article about the declining population here in Ukraine – sine April the
government has begun offering parents a $1,500 bonus for having a baby! This is a significant amount since monthly
salaries in Ukraine average about $190 these days.
Catching up on my
Christian Science Monitor reading I found an article about child marriage in
India – I will share it with club members. A boo review in the same paper provided
interesting insight into women who gave up children for adoption in the days
prior to Roe v. Wade. This area is
peripheral to the marriage topic, but may be of interest too.
I pass on my Christian
Science Monitors to my English Club members so they can practice their reading
skills. The Monitor is an excellent
paper – I am so grateful to receive it.
I read a few articles each day; rationing out my pleasures over
breakfast coffee.
Life is so good…
·
Tuesday, 6 June 2006
The Sun is Far Above the Horizon and it is Not
Yet 6 AM.
I wake to sunlight
pouring through the windows. The world
outside is so bright and yet so quiet – no traffic or human sounds. I hear the faint sounds of water
flowing.
For a moment, I am
lulled into complacency and consider going back to sleep, then suddenly I leap
up, push aside the mosquito netting and look out the window: the intersection a
few yards from our window is a huge pool of water with a geyser in the middle!
I tug at my
slippers as I race to the kitchen to turn on the tap – water trickles out as I
grab a pitcher and try to catch enough for our morning coffee.
The city water
main has burst again so there will be no more water today and maybe for several
days.
No water – toilets
can’t flush, dishes and laundry pile up, sweaty bodies begin to smell and
scalps itch….Welcome home!
Water supply is
one of the largest infrastructure problems in Crimea. It seems odd when we are sitting right on two
seas. This is a real long-term issue
here in Kerch, but right now, I am mostly concerned with my immediate needs.
I say a quick
prayer of gratitude that this did not happen while my in-laws were visiting and
I say a few thanks for the fact that I had hot water to shower in last night. I am also grateful for the two loads of
laundry I washed, rinsed and wrung out before bed last night. (Two more loads, however, are soaking in
soapy water and will have to wait to be rinsed.
The soap and local water are strong so the color leaches out of clothes
quickly. I am not happy to have things
soak long.)
Baby Kittens on the Roof!
I make coffee and
stand at the window for a few moments, gazing out at my cat friends who have
begun to congregate for their usual breakfast under the water pump
outside. Cat Woman is due soon. The grey and brown cat-lumps keep their eyes
locked on the door. I keep my eyes on
the cats. One of my favorite moments is
when the cats simultaneously leap to their feet, and tails up, glide across the
sidewalk as graceful as ballerinas on a theater stage. The squeaky hinge and the rattling pan signify
breakfast rice and fish and these sounds cue this daily performance.
I catch some unexpected
movement with the corner of my eye. On
the flat rooftop to the left of our flat, a mother cat is bathing her new
kittens who are happily nursing in the morning sun. I can just make out the kittens pudgy little
shapes.
I ignore the water
situation and happily peer at the new kittens.
My morning coffee grows tepid in the cup I hold in my hands. I am spellbound by the magic of these tiny
creatures.
What a delightful
way to be welcomed home!
·
Monday, 5 June 2006 (Daughter Moriah’s
B’Day!)
Home, Sweet Flat
We staggered in around
mid-afternoon, eager to put down our over-stuffed bags and relax. This vacation involved too much work!
As we walked up to
the courtyard door, the rosebush in our garden greeted us with sweet perfume. A flurry of white roses welcomed us
home. I lingered a moment.
The neighborhood
cats scampered up and hopped onto the garden bench, looking at me
expectantly. I pulled out a small bag of
cat chow I always carry in my handbag and shared a handful with them. It is good to be welcomed home.
Inside we dropped
our bags and paused a moment to soak up the feeling of home. I could feel the tension leave my body. The sunny yellow tablecloth in our bright
kitchen, the cheerful teacups waiting for us, the windowsill filled with lush
green plants, the sun pouring in the window…home, sweet, home.
After a quick trip
to the local magazine (the Russian word for store) where we purchased some
basic food supplies, we had a leisurely lunch.
Then the unpacking began.
The small flat was
tidy when we arrived home, but it quickly became cluttered as we emptied out
our luggage, sorted dirty laundry and paused to look at the new stuff we
brought home from our adventures.
I spread the new
bold striped hammock out on the couch to admire it. This was a splurge; an impulse purchase made
with a small gift of cash our house-sitter unexpectedly and generously shared
with us.
It will be a fine
souvenir of this vacation that did not allow us time to relax. Perhaps we can finally relax here in our
courtyard – what can be more restful than catching a cool breeze while relaxing
in a hammock with a good book? (Thanks
you Jim!)
Mark pulled out
another new acquisition – a lovely mosquito net the Peace Corps medical staff
sent home with him. It wasn’t long
before he had hammer and nails in hand and had the new netting mounted over the
window to effectively block flying visitors from entering our sleeping
area.
It is good to be
home. Puttering or putzing around the
house is such a pleasure.
The past three
weeks have been demanding. We spent so
many hours on the train (approximately 90 hours of rail-time and the last trip
was on a very dirty, crowded hot train!).
We also walked and walked and walked on this marathon sightseeing
trip. Our more usual way of vacationing
is far more relaxed, but with visitors here from the USA and so many wonderful things
to share, we got caught up in the inertia of playing tourist!
In September, we
plan to spend a more leisurely vacation and will set a slower pace when we
travel to a yet-to-be-determined location in western Ukraine to celebrate my
birthday and our wedding anniversary. We
will just hole up in a cozy rental flat and explore the city a bit, sleeping in
and soaking up the ambience in an outdoor cafe.
A lazy autumn picnic will be on my agenda and maybe that hammock and a
few good novels will travel with us.
For now, I do not
want to think of leaving. I am glad to
be home. I am happy here. After the cold days of winter, what could be
more delightful than the crazy, hazy, lazy days of summer? Summer by the sea, by the sea, by the
beautiful sea…
E-Mail Excerpt…
We are back home again in our cozy flat in Kerch after three weeks on
the road. It is good to be home.
We racked up lots of train time and saw lots of beautiful stuff, did
some visiting and touring with my in-laws and Mark also did some PC
projects...not too relaxing really (is sight-seeing ever relaxing?),
but a nice break. I am showered and ready to collapse for ten or so
hours of sleep. The train trip home was OK, but I would not
recommend train travel this time of year - hot, hot, hot and lots of
kids as everyone heads to the sea for vacation...The train
compartments are sweat boxes, especially on the top "shelf" (bunk)
and kids and train toilets add up to a big mess!
Kiev, where we spent much of our vacation time, is a bustling,
progressive city of 3 million and filled with luxuries...it is like
being in NYC. We enjoyed seeing how the rich live! Here in Kerch,
where the average wage is about $190 (or 980 HRV) which is about what
a PCV in Ukraine makes, our money goes lots farther. Life in the big
city, like life in any big city, is pretty pricey, when your wages
are based on the small town! (You could blow a months wages on a
pair of shoes or even dinner pretty easily in Kiev!)
On the music scene - Black Eyed Peas performed in Kiev this past
weekend! The Stones will be "rolling" in soon and rumors of Pink
Floyd (a reunion) too!
This is a country of contrast....there is dire poverty and Ukraines'
AIDS/HIV rate is the fastest growing in the world, the population has
dropped by 6 million in recent years (about twice the size of the capital
city), birth rates and death rates are equal - the government is
giving new parents a "thank you gift" of $1,500 for having children,
unemployment is soaring...but things are moving forward as the
economy develops....
Mark just finished hanging up the mosquito net the PC medical folks
sent home with him - we draped it over the windows so we can open
them at night to catch the breeze and catch the flying bugs before
they enter the flat...our bed is surrounded with mosquito netting too
- looks romantic and is practical too! It also helps psychologically
divide the space in our tiny flat.
Lots of stuff to share really - I will update my journal in the next
few days (and photo pages too)...tonight I plan to just crash and burn...
It is good to be home again...
FYI: Today (the 5th) is our daughter's birthday - great memories of
her arrival many years ago...10 pounds of happy baby girl sent me to
the hospital during my Dad's birthday celebration (I was making
watermelon and cantaloupe balls for a salad when labor hit. Moriah
and I were born in the same hospital! I wish we could be together to
celebrate, but surely Chip, Cam and Randa and Moriah's Phoenix
friends will make the occasion memorable!
More stuff later...Life is so good.
Ginn (& Mark)
In Sunny Kerch on a Monday Evening by the Sea
www.pulverpages.com
·
Sunday, 4 June 2006
Packing It In – All Aboard the Summer Night
Train to Kerch!
I would not recommend
the train to Crimea in the summer months unless you are a certified
masochist!
Why you ask? Well imagine about 36 vacationing people
including lots of children with plenty of luggage crammed into a tiny train car
with only two toilets – add hot weather and train windows that do not
open. Consider that your
compartment-mates are likely to be sweaty strangers and there are often several
people who are swilling vodka and/or excessive amounts of beer as they
celebrate the start of their holiday. (It
could be worse I guess – in platzcar there are 52 seats and two toilets!)
The toilets get
disgusting very quickly.
Our train car this
past trip was filthy inside and out when we started. We logged about 90 hours on trains the past
few weeks and so I speak from experience when I say this. I am not a novice at train travel here, nor
am I particularly whiny or demanding. (I
am retired military so I have experience roughing it!) My observations here are simply that:
observations – facts, not whining.
The toilets on
this train make pit toilets and outhouses look good and that was at the start
of the trip! I cannot imagine how the
pregnant woman in the next compartment managed on this trip…
I spent most of
the 20-plus hours sweating in the jump seat in the hallway trying to catch a
breeze and watching the dozen kids in our car race up and down the narrow aisle,
while I read a novel. I finally crawled
into my upper bunk (always a challenge for me since my surgery last spring) and
read until sleep overtook me.
This trip the
mattresses provided were only a scant inch thick. I was grateful for the fresh linens that were
available.
I dreamed I
drowned in my own sweat.
·
Saturday, 3 June 2006
Checking Out & Going Cross Town
We checked out of
the humble flat we called home for the past week. It was a good location and quite comfortable
for our needs. For $70 a night, we had a
kitchen, cable TV, a bedroom and a living room and wonderful hot water with
great water pressure. The flat is just
minutes from the beautiful main street of Kiev – like being just off Time
Square or Central Park in NYC! It made a
great place to hole up with our family during our visit here, but we have to
leave.
Mark is still
working on a video project with Peace Corps equipment so we move to the
contract quarters at the Hotel Bratislava for this final night in Kiev. They made reservations for us, so even though
my share is not paid for, we could get the reduced rate for me. Even with reduced rates, it is still pretty
pricy for us. The flat was a great
solution, but was not vacant so we had to move.
We elect to
splurge on a cab since we have so much luggage now (books from the Peace Corps
office and extra equipment and medical supplies plus the clothes we scavengered
from departing PCVs!).
The cab driver is
expert at dodging traffic. An older
woman makes the sign of the cross repeatedly as she crosses the street in front
of our cab and we laugh at her precautions. So does the driver.
The Bratislava Lobby is Remodeled
The Bratislava has
been under renovation for a long time.
It is nice to see the improvements each time we visit. Of course, the contracted quarters used by
the Peace Corps are among the last to be renovated, it is still pleasing to see
the progress.
The new lobby was
open and it is quite elegant and bright.
There is now a bar in the lobby and there are modern couches for people
to linger in when they wait for their friends or cab.
Upstairs, our room
is still seedy and old, but clean. There are nasty greasy spots on the
wall. The balcony is crumbling and I am
afraid to set foot on it. The view from
the tenth floor is lovely, but the flats next door are old and dirty. The bathroom has excellent hot water, but it
is old and cramped and pipes are exposed.
It was a pleasant
surprise to have a double bed with a firm mattress. Our past Bratislava experiences have involved
sleeping on tortuous Soviet-era single beds that are very narrow and with tin
mattresses and rails that leave you thinking that the floor would be more
comfortable.
Mark set up his
equipment to continue copying the video onto his computer. He will begin editing when we are back in
Kerch. So while the video copies, we
wandered around the nearby bazaar and shopping areas.
Splashed with Holy Water!
The weather is hot
and bright so we spend time finding shade and avoiding long exposure to the
sun. Kiev is humid and the heat makes it
uncomfortable. Mark hopes to find a
summer hat to protect his shaved head.
We make a few
purchases. Mark buys me a beautiful
large animal print scarf (28 HVA or about $6) which I am delighted to
have. We wander through the children’s
bazaar looking for a gift for the twin girls my niece will have in a few
weeks.
We find adorable
girlie dresses for the twins and as we are making the purchase an orthodox
priest in full regalia stops to splash the booth and us with holy water.
We continue to
wander about just people watching and enjoying a slow pace. We stop for coffee and brandy and linger a
bit. Life is good.
·
Friday, 2 June 2006
Mark Meets with Video Team at PC Office…
Today Mark is hard
at work on a video project that involves teacher trainers and the PR folks at
Peace Corps Ukraine. Video editing is
Mark’s happy hobby. He loves the
challenges of it so he is glad to tackle the project pro bono.
I am happy to
spend some time in the Peace Corps lounge wading through 400 e-mails and doing
a little Internet surfing. I look at sites
about Santa Fe, NM…I feel an affinity for that area and conjure up some
pleasant daydreams about carving out a life there when we return to the USA
next year.
It is a pleasant
day for us both. We visit with other
PCVs and hear about their projects and plans and listen to their tales of life
in Ukraine. We collect a few books and a
few items left behind by another PCV (I am really grateful for the raincoat and
umbrella and a great pink sweater!)
·
Thursday, 1 June 2006
Mid-Service Medical for Mark
Our guests
departed yesterday and today was dedicated to Mark’s mid-service medical
examination. It was a full day! He managed to go out to get his eyes examined
and complete a chest ex-ray plus the Peace Corps medical staff completed the
routine exam in the office. They
squeezed in a dental appointment at an elegant dental office near the US
Embassy (about $60) at 5 PM so we walked to it and then headed back to our
rented flat for a quiet evening.
I spent the day
reading e-mail and visiting with other PCVs in the lounge. I found several stories in English about the
controversial military site near Feodosia and Stay Krim, towns not far from our
site in Kerch. Operation Sea Breeze is also in the news and adds to the
controversy.