·
Tuesday,30 January 2007
Three News Clips a Friend Shared with Me…
1.
New Home - No Down Payment. Kyle McDonald of Montreal (age 26) wanted a
house. Here’s his approach: he started trading
on online and made 14 trades during the course of 12months. Yes, negotiated a 3-bedroom house! OK, here’s the funny part: he started by
trading a paperclip! Yep, a humble
paperclip!
He traded up 14
times, eventually scoring a snowmobile, and then a recording contract, an
afternoon with rocker Alice Cooper, and finally he traded a movie role for that
3-bedroom house!
2.
For the Birds. A yellow parakeet named Spike was named Young
Cross-Stitcher of the Year by a British sewing magazine. Yep, a parakeet! Sandra Battye, Spike’s human companion, says
the bird would sit on her shoulder for hours watching her stitch. One day, she picked up the needle in her beak
and began to stitch herself. ”She is
very good, but still gets a bit confused at how the patterns work,” says
Sandra.
3.
Oldest Known Returned Peace Corps Volunteer Turns 100. Evangeline
Shuler, born in 1906, and her spouse served Peace Corps in India during the
1960’s. She was not young then – she was
62 years old! The article lists some of
her accomplishments, but the thing that stands out to me is this: when her
spouse died about 1 year into their service, she returned to the USA briefly
and then returned to complete the assignment they had started together.
·
Monday, 29 January 2007
You know those
tearful, cross, young children you often see as you wander through American
grocery stores. I wonder if some of
their frustration, anger and bad-behavior is simply linked to an inability to
communicate.
I imagine a
toddler’s internal dialogue along these lines. “Geez - What is WRONG with me???
I am almost 2-and-a-half and I STILLl can’t seem to find the right words to
tell Mommy exactly what I want to say.
My vocabulary stinks and I have problems pronouncing stuff too! I just feel so stupid! Some of my playmates
manage to speak in complete sentences already and here I am, just able to utter
a few words. I have to resort to
pointing and gestures! I am hopeless,”
wails the toddler as tears roll down chubby cheeks.
I imagine small
children feel pretty smart some days, but on other occasions, they just are
reduced to tears by the unrelenting frustration of not being able to
communicate effectively.
I hope small
children do not really berate themselves mentally. I hope they do not compare themselves to
others, rating and ranking their play-pals by some kid-standard.
Sometimes, the
language challenges of living in a foreign country can undermine ones ability
to move forward…but only if you let it.
Sometimes PCVs beat themselves up mentally, thinking they should have a
better command of the language after two years of living here.
There is a huge
gift wrapped in this situation. A person
can really learn a lot about humility, meekness and working with other people.
You CAN achieve a
lot, even if you never learn to speak well.
In fact, this can make you a more careful listener and it can help you
to really cultivate relationships that you may not have resorted to if you
lived by the credo of independence that many Americans grow up with.
·
Sunday, 28 January 2007
Uncle Gene Passed on this Morning
The plan is to
scatter his ashes in the Grand Canyon.
That will happen this summer.
Gene, the youngest
male of the Jeys clan, was a published novelist, short-story writer and a teller
of tales around the campfire. He was
also a little unconventional and a little opinionated and a bit of a wild-child
(I think. I heard the term ”black sheep”
applied a few times). He was a wrestler
and was the first (maybe only) among the brothers and sisters to graduate from
a university. He worked with the Boy
Scouts and enjoyed working with wood too.
He spent many years of his life in the area around Albuquerque.
In his later
years, he attended the Iowa Writer’s Workshop.
He penned two novels (fiction) which became controversial among the
brothers and sisters who believed the stories were based on family
incidents. The brothers and sisters
always said that Gene never could get the facts straight!
Aunt Mary, the
oldest of the brood, is still thriving. At 100 years-plus, she still cooks and
cleans and has a memory like a tack!
Aunt Eda Lou, the baby, is still vital and active too. There were about ten kids in the family…each
with a strong, distinct personality. It
was great fun to see them all together at the annual Jeys family campouts.
Some of my best
memories are of sitting around the campfire and listening to them talk of old
times or tell tales or sing as we toasted marshmallows and enjoyed the Iowa
summer nights and the feeling of being part of a family.
·
Saturday, 27 January 2007
Happy Birthday Lyudmila! 8-)
(She’s in pink & that’s me next to
her!)
·
Friday, 26 January 2007
*My friend Amanda recommends the following
books:
What to Eat by Marion
Nestle
Banker to the Poor - Muhammad Yunus' autobiography
Jeffry Sachs' - The End of Poverty
The Color of Love: A Mother's Choice in the Jim Crow South by Gene Cheek
The Rabbi's Cat - an awesome graphic novel by Joann Sfar
**and these movies:
Little Miss Sunshine
An Inconvenient Truth
Waiting for Guffman
Center Stage
A Very Long Engagement
Hilary & Jackie
Here’s some films I want to add to my list
of “must see movies”:
"The Good
German"
"Children of Men"
"Pan's
Labyrinth" (Franco era Spain!),
and the latest Almadovar film (I forgot the
name –“Volver” maybe?!!)
I think I have not
updated (online) my list of books I have read here in Crimea…the list is
somewhere on our Ukraine Adventure page…
·
Thursday, 25 January 2007
·
Wednesday, 24 January 2007
I looked back at my
January 2005 journals…we were just receiving our surprise, short-notice
invitation to stage for Ukraine the last week in February.
We were originally
nominated for Central Asia for one of the “Stanlands” for around June but our
placement officer asked if we would be interested in a short notice opportunity
in Eastern Europe and we said yes!
Now, two years
later, here we are in Ukraine, thinking about the impending Close of Service
(COS) conference in just over a week.
Another benchmark
met.
What next?
·
Monday, 22 January 2007
I Am Soooooooo NOT a Linear Person!....
Stuff gets done,
but if anyone watched me, they would certainly be confused as I switch between
totally unrelated projects in mid-stride.
I have a good track record for getting stuff done, but certainly would
NOT inspire confidence in an efficiency expert observing my modus operandi!
My methods and
procedures are intuitive I guess. I have
always preferred to work unobserved and find any kind of performance evaluation
extremely stressful; perhaps because people may critique my logic or
methods. So when people are around, I
generally drop what I am doing and observe them or assist.
When no one is
around, I morph into my hard-charger-mode and seldom take a break.
That is my “modus
vivendi” – my way of integrating my way of life with the rest of the world.
So, I am supposed
to be taking down the holiday tree right now, but stopped to do an important
e-mail, then jotted a couple postcards, back to the tree, then I rinsed some
laundry, back to the tree, cleaned the sink, re-read holiday cards, back to the
tree, making notes in my journal, and now, time to get back to the tiny tree
again, but first I need to file some papers…….
Somewhere a
heavenly efficiency expert, looking down on my life, is letting out a big sigh
and rolling his eyes.
“She’s got a ticket to ride…”
We purchased train
tickets for the trip to the Close of Service (COS) conference in early
February. Usually these
train-ticket-purchasing transactions are challenging and character building
events, but this time, all went well.
Train travel is
quite inexpensive in Ukraine, but we still managed to spend about ten-days pay
on tickets. Of course Mark will be
reimbursed for most of his share. We are
taking a little side trip to Odessa (kind of a Valentine’s and Mark’s birthday
treat) enroute home from the conference in the Carpathians and we are traveling
through Kiev enroute to the conference, because Mark has an IT meeting
there.
So we will sleep
on the night train 4-5 nights. This
means, no hotel costs, but there are tradeoffs too. I like train travel generally, but as with
anything there are good points and there are things you simply put up with.
On this trip we
are likely to share a kupe with two other strangers so there is no
privacy. There is also the dance of
sharing food and conversing…close quarters mean either making friends or
ignoring one another…(See my train-travel experience with a fellow passenger on
the electrishka on Old New Year’s Eve last week…you will understand my attitude
toward potential “room mates”…I also know stories of other PCVs on the train
that involve vomiting, peeing and other behaviors I would rather avoid.)
And of course the
bathroom situation can be challenging-the toilets are locked prior to arrival
and immediately following departures for quite a long time, so negotiating time
in the water closet is an art (well, maybe not an art exactly!) The train toilets are pretty dicey,
It is hard to look
refreshed under the circumstances - we call the resulting look “train face”.
Ukrainian women have magical powers and manage to arrive looking regal and
composed even after a stressful train trip.
In the heat of
summer trains are like rolling ovens and usually very crowded (we will leave
Ukraine in the summer months. Hmmm…).
·
Sunday, 21 January 2007
The Payback…
A tap on my
kitchen window startled me. I was engrossed in a “Newsweek” article about
Google’s innovative translation program that analyzes language based on websites
rather than using the traditional parameters of grammar rules, etc. (Intuitive
intelligence…hmmm…like learning a language from watching television – I know of
a Ukrainian woman who emigrated to the USA and credits old ”Star Trek” shows
with her excellent command of the English language! But I digress)
I looked up from
my magazine and straight into the eyes of the old woman who visited us on New
Year’s Day asking for 10 UAH (actually she says “rubles”, the Russian term for
money, a term we often hear in Kerch with its predominantly ethnic Russian
population…again, I digress…) She told
us that her pension had not arrived. We
figured we would never see that $2 again.
In fact, we did wonder if as an easy touch we might be hit-on again.
(Another PCV has written amusing articles for the PC Ukraine newsletter about
the various locals who “rely” on him for handouts, which, in my opinion, just
allows for amusing stories, But is not a good precedent - there are other ways
to help ….again, I am rambling!)
So, there is the
neighbor tapping on the window glass, staring in through the pane at me. “Let me in,” she yelled.
A dozen thoughts
ran through my mind. But, before I could
respond, Mark kindly answered the door.
I remained
stone-still in my chair and considered what she might want. Then, before I could be overwhelmed by a
skeptical, mortal view of this picture, I found myself thinking about the
spiritual nature of supply and said a heartfelt prayer of gratitude.
In a few moments,
Mark came through the hall door and plunked a 10 UAH note on the table. I smiled up at him.
“There’s more,” he
said, pulling out a bag of colorfully wrapped chocolates.
My smile got
bigger! I laughed out loud while in the
quiet sanctuary of my private thoughts, I said another happy prayer of
gratitude.
·
Saturday, 20 January 2007
This is Flat Ms Ginn:
I have been happily involved with another
version of the Flat Stanley Project, this time an unofficial one. The class of 5th graders from
Florida sent me a small flat person.
Their teacher, a Peace Corps applicant himself, initiated the project.
He wants the kids think more globally. The enclosed letter indicated that I
should send a “flat me” back with the journals and photos, souvenirs and other paraphernalia
involved in this flat-person transaction.
So, here I am -
Flat Ms Ginn. She was a freehand creation, a labor of enthusiasm and joy, not a
tribute to accuracy or beauty. I tucked
the original into an envelope and now a virtual me is on her way to sunny
Florida for a little vacation and site seeing!
These projects are
such fun. I shared the idea with a group
of Ukrainian educators at a professional conference recently. Though the idea seems more applicable to
younger people, I believe teens and young university students developing
language and culture skills can have a grand time using this creative approach
to learning.
There are so many
directions one can go with this simple idea- and it is a wonderful way to
introduce a variety of technology applications too. In the right hands it can become a
sophisticated, dynamic project of genius…or, it can just be simple fun and
educational too!
I also think this
project is a great one for PCVs, because it really brings the Third Goal
initiatives to life. By interacting with
students and exposing them to PCV life as well as life in another country, a
PCV can plant precious seeds…(FYI: Third Goal, is a reference to the three
Peace Corps goals - the 3rd involves sharing what you learn from
your PCV experience with the people back in the USA.)
Mark, seeing me
surrounded by all the accouterments and clutter of the project, shakes his head
and affectionately mutters, ”You really should be a kindergarten teacher.”
And maybe I should
be! It’s not too late is it?
_____________________________________________________
Here’s Flat Ms
Ginn and Flat P. (wearing a snow hat and winter wear cuz it is cold here in
Ukraine). Visit the official Flat
Stanley site: www.flatstanleyproject.com and spend a little time exploring some of the
cool projects other people have done!
______________________________________________________
·
Friday, 19 January 2007
A Letter from my Brother!
My brother, like
me, writes. I am more of a child of
technology and rely on e-mail to conduct my daily conversations and contacts,
while my brother, living high on a remote mountaintop in Malawi (Africa), uses
a pen and paper to reach out to a long list of friends and family. I generally receive a letter from him about
once a month and frequently, more often.
So it has been
since late September since a pale blue envelope, edged in a distinctive red and
white border with an African postmark has arrived to my tiny Ukrainian post
office box. I had begun to wonder if I
had penned something to offend him in one of my rambling discourses.
Is “no news, good
news?
One look at the
envelope revealed that the letter, penned in mid-November, had made an extended
journey. On the reverse side was a
Lennox, Iowa postmark. Apparently the
letter took a very circuitous route from the Rift Valley in Africa, through the
heartland of the USA before reaching me here in the bread basket of Europe.
But, it was a very
welcome sight to see.
·
Thursday, 18 January 2007
Late Night Reading…
What is it that
wakes us in the night?
I lay in the dark
for a very long time, going through my usual list of I’m-awake-in-the-night
routines. Finally, I got up, slipped
into my slippers and padded out to the kitchen.
I fumbled around and finally found Grandaddy Mark’s old watch which
lives on the corner of our kitchen table here in Kerch. 4 AM.
I closed the door
to the other room, snapped on the light and began reading (“The Power of One”
by Bryce Courtenay). After while, it
occurred to me to make a bit of hot tea.
I rarely drink
tea, except to be polite, but when I was a young girl, tea was what I sipped as
I happily read in Mother’s kitchen in the big yellow house in Iowa. I would perch on a stool next to the stove,
back to the room and feet cozily propped on the hot air vent on the wall. My
sweet, hot tea with a dollop of milk, steeped on the range top near my
elbow.
So, many decades
later, I find myself sipping tea in a cozy kitchen in Ukraine and reading a
good book.
“The Power of One”
is a good read. The cover says it is
“the classic tale of South Africa” which frankly does not induce me to pick it
up. Also on the front cover, boxing
gloves dangle from the toe of the N in the word ONE. Boxing does not draw me in
either (though Father represented the Army as a boxer during his WWII
experience.).
No, I was not
drawn to this book. It collected dust on
our small PCV bookshelf for several months, but finally the dearth of available
novels caught up with me and I picked it up.
I flipped through the book again and this time noticed a quote on the
back cover. The Christian Science Monitor, whose book reviews I value and
trust, says this is “A compelling tale”.
So I decided I was compelled to read it, if only because nothing else
was available.
This book, is an
unexpected pleasure. Despite my dubious
initial attitude, I love the small boy Peejay who narrates his adventures
skillfully and with great detail. He
wins the reader over, draws one into diverse events. Ultimately, it is an uplifting novel and well
worth reading. I will hate to see this
delightful novel end.
·
Wednesday, 17 January 2007
Music, Mark, and Magic
8AM and the speakers
reverberate with the bluesy-sound of George Thurgood spitting out a riff more
suited to a smoky barroom than a living room.
The recording is from a live concert, so when this cut ends there is
wild cheering, whistling and applause. I
am sure our Ukrainian neighbors and the people in the small store next door are
curious about what the crazy, old American couple is up to today.
The days, thank
goodness, have begun to get longer so even though it is early on this winter
day, it is bright and clear. The weather has been uncharacteristically
mild. The bright day and loud music
motivate me to dance a bit as I tackle morning chores.
Usually at this
hour I linger quietly, hunkered in my chair, sipping breakfast coffee and
reading the CS Monitor or ”Newsweek” while the BBC cuts in and out on the
shortwave radio. But who can concentrate
on news with this music playing? Who can
sit still with this music playing?
The sounds of the
Steve Miller Band fill the air now. The parakeets
chirp and cheep with pleasure. In the
privacy of the kitchen, I sing and play air guitar.
I am
euphoric. I am on a music induced high.
Mark waves goodbye
as he slides out the door, leaving behind the uncharacteristic sounds of loud
rock and roll and blues.
All these great
sounds are coming from the belly of my very own computer. The music sits trapped inside, waiting for
release.
Do I ever remember
to set them free? No, not often.
It seems it is
Mark who brings music to my life.
Once again I am
reminded of the magic Mark brings into my life.
·
Tuesday, 16 January 2007
Shoes for Orphans – Tap-dancing Techniques…
I am eager to move
forward on getting shoes to some local orphans. (See my 28 December notes) I know this project will come to fruition,
but right now it seems character-building!
This started last
summer at camp when the need for shoes came up in conversation (not money –
shoes). The need has been confirmed, a
donor has materialized, friends and family have volunteered to make purchases
and post things, and the methods (customs issues) are penciled in…but we cannot
really move forward until we have the sizes and some bureaucratic paperwork.
“Next week,” I
hear from the foundation’s director.
Then next week comes and once again I hear, “Next week...next
week”…sigh.
I have recently
contacted two American families who are going through adoptions here (one in
western Crimea and one here). I may
change my tactics and work through their contacts. Or perhaps I will simply have shoes sent to
me in a variety of sizes.
The long Ukrainian
holiday season is almost over so perhaps we can finally move forward…
Following is a
blog link…an American couple chronicle their adoption experience here in Crimea
(specifically in Yalta and Kerch):
Another
gray day in Yalta
By
mattandlisasicilian(mattandlisasicilian)
Kerch, where our six year old, Vika now lives is about a four hour car
ride on a two lane road from here. It is about two miles from the Russian
border- makes my nationalistic Ukrainian Mama, verrrrrrrrrrrry nerrrrrvous- and
more than a ...
Our Ukrainian Adoption
- http://mattandleeukraina.blogspot.com/index.html
Life in Orphanages
Following is an
article from the CS Monitor World edition. Though this story is about Russia,
it paints a picture that reflects life in Ukrainian orphanages too. Such charitable organizations are only now
developing. The Russian economy is currently booming (oil rich!) yet there is
still a huge gap between the haves and the have-nots. Here in Ukraine, the economy and government
are still struggling and conditions are very challenging. Well, read on…
from the December 26, 2006 edition - http://www.csmonitor.com/2006/1226/p01s03-woeu.html
By Fred Weir | Correspondent of The Christian Science Monitor
RYBINSK, RUSSIA
Children pour out of Rybinsk's orphanage No.
72, laughing and waving, when the Murziki pull up in their mud-spattered convoy
of cars. The kids know many of these adults from distant Moscow by name, and
they hurry to help unload the cars, stacked with boxes of toys, sports
equipment, and coats - as well as cutlery and a new VCR with a selection of
cartoons, needs the Murziki carefully noted on their last visit.
The Murziki tell the kids that they come
from the mythical country of Murlandia, a kind of cross between Neverland and
Santa's Village. In reality, they're something almost as rare in Russia, where
the volunteer spirit has been dead for the past century: a self-organized band
of middle-class people devoting their resources and spare time to a sustained
effort to change hard facts for a few hundred children.
"We decided not to sit around waiting
for the state to do something about the human crisis we saw unfolding,"
says German Pyatov, a Moscow surgeon who founded the group after the 1998
financial crash in Russia.
It's now grown to about 700 supporters,
connected by the Internet, and a hard core of several dozen Muscovites who
regularly make the 300-mile drive out to the chain of poor Volga towns, with
their teeming orphanages, that they've targeted.
"I've found that interacting with these
children charges me with the energy to keep going," says Mr. Pyatov.
"It's enough to look in their eyes to realize that not enough is being
done."
They have their work cut out for them.
Russia's orphan population has ballooned in the past 15 years, particularly in
the economically blighted hinterland beyond booming Moscow.
Rybinsk, a formerly closed defense-industry
town of 250,000 on the Volga River, had one orphanage in 1991; now it has six.
This reflects a widespread post-Soviet tendency of impoverished families to
abandon children.
Forty out of the 52 inhabitants of orphanage
No. 72 have living parents who won't, or can't, care for them. "Most of
the factories around here went bankrupt, and people lost everything," says
Nina Kornyushkina, the orphanage's director. "Many people sank into
despair and alcoholism, and the children were just lost."
About 760,000 children are classified as
orphans in Russia, according to the Ministry of Education, while a further 1.5
million are thought to be "homeless." Statistics cited by Pyatov
suggest that existing institutions do little to help them.
"Roughly 45 percent of children land in
prison within five years of leaving the orphanage, 35 percent become drug or
alcohol addicts, 10 per cent die - of accidents and suicide - and just 10
percent are considered relatively successful," he says.
"Being sent to an orphanage is a
catastrophic route for any child," says Sergei Korobenko, the Russian head
of Hope International, which runs programs in large cities to persuade parents
not to give up their children to orphanages. "There are very many families
at risk, and we try to work directly with them, to find ways to ease their
problems and keep the children in the home setting."
Pyatov says the Murziki are beginning to
follow children who "graduate" from the orphanages they sponsor to
find them jobs and help them deal with problems of real-world adjustment.
"Most of our supporters are
professionals or business people, and that makes a practical network," he
says. "We have a few successes already."
State funding better, but
not enough
Most experts agree that state funding for
orphanages and children's services has improved since Russia's oil-fueled
economic growth began seven years ago. But an official report by Deputy General
Prosecutor Sergei Fridinsky earlier this year found that 40 percent of
orphanages are in dire need of repairs, six percent have no indoor plumbing,
and five percent lack central heating. In some provincial institutions, the
report said, funding amounts to just $0.01 per child per day.
Corruption and theft in the system are
little-discussed problems. The Murziki combat this with vigilance, and by
printing their logo on all donations. On return visits, they check to make sure
the things they gave last time are still in place.
At one children's home, in the tiny Volga
town of Miushkin, for example, Pyatov sent a car to locate the institution's
director, who wasn't at her desk, and bring her back to sign for the load of
clothes, blankets, and snowboards that he was delivering.
"If you don't ensure that someone takes
direct and personal responsibility, it's likely that everything you bring will
turn up on the local market the next day," he says. "People don't see
it as stealing from children - they just think about how miserable their
salaries are, and how hard their own lives are. It'll be a long time before
that changes."
Some child-care specialists decry what they
call the tendency of state officials to play politics with Russian orphans. An
ongoing crackdown on foreign-based adoption agencies has squeezed, but not
halted, the adoption process.
According to the Education Ministry, about
130,000 new orphans were registered last year, while fewer than 30,000 were
adopted - about half by foreigners. Last week, Health Minister Mikhail Zurabov
pledged to shut down all orphanages and place children in foster homes within
five years.
"Our goal is that every child should
have a family," he was quoted as saying in the daily Noviye Izvestia.
But experts say that's unrealistic. While
some 100,000 children are placed with foster parents yearly, the majority of
those families are the children's grandparents or other relatives.
"The vast majority of Russian families
are not psychologically ready for this, much less financially," says Ella
Pamfilova, chair of the Kremlin's human rights commission. "A lot of social
reforms will have to be accomplished before this idea can be placed on the
agenda."
The best idea, say some, is for the state to
get behind grass-roots initiatives like the Murziki. Though charitable giving
is on the upswing in Russia, the total was still under $1.5 billion last year,
mostly from big corporations. By contrast, charitable giving in the United
States totaled about $260 billion in 2005, according to Giving USA.
"What the Murziki are doing is great,
but there are just too few groups like them compared to the scale of the
need," says Mr. Korobenko. "Things will get better when more people
get involved."
Nikolai and Sergei enjoy
the visits
At orphanage No. 72, the children welcome
the cheer that Murziki visits bring.
"They often come here, help us, and
bring us things," says Nikolai Sergeev, who is 14. "I have been here
for six years, and our group looks better now that we have computers and TVs -
it is more fun."
Sergei Sokolov, who is 16, has been at the
orphanage for five years. He remembers an excursion that the Murziki organized
for them to Moscow.
"They do positive things for us,"
he says. "Our rooms are cozier and there is equipment for us to use, so I
think that will be useful for our future and self-education."
Sergei says that the Murziki even cook with
them at times.
"I think if there were more good people
like Murziki," he muses, "the future of Russia would be better."
• A
Helping Hand: Director Nina Kornyushkina told correspondent Fred Weir that
before German Pyatov, who founded the Russian charitable group Murziki, showed
up at the door of orphanage No. 72 in late 1998, times were hard. "We
didn't have even a sack of sugar," she says. The 1990s were a desperate
time, as the local government went bankrupt and financing from Moscow nearly
dried up. "We saw every kind of deprivation," she told Fred.
"Sometimes I just despaired."
She says that she feels
fortunate that Mr. Pyatov decided to help her orphanage. "On his second
visit, Pyatov bought 80 pairs of new shoes, just in time for the New Year.
After that, he started bringing friends, and the Murziki were born. Pyatov and
his friends took pictures of our awful conditions and noted all our
needs," she says. "I wasn't sure we'd hear from them again, but they
returned with a truck full of things. Now we're the best of friends. The kids
are inviting the Murziki to celebrate the New Year with us."
Fred, who went with the
Murziki for a trip through the Volga region, says that he was astounded at how
the Putin-era development on vivid display in Moscow has bypassed the area.
"Moscow is filled with foreign cars, well-dressed people, neon-lit
commercial areas, and lots of new construction," he says.
But he saw a different
picture on his trip. "The roads are rutted, and what traffic there is is
mostly Soviet-made cars and trucks. Buildings are dilapidated, there are few
shops selling anything other than necessities, and many people look as if they
haven't bought new clothes in a decade. Experts say that alcoholism and unemployment
rates in towns like Rybinsk top 70 percent. The Murziki, mostly Moscow
professionals, like to tell the kids that they come from a different country
where everything is wonderful. In a way, they really do."
Amelia Newcomb
Deputy world editor
Let us hear from you. Mail
to: One Norway Street, Boston, MA 02115 via e-mail: World
editor
www.csmonitor.com | Copyright © 2006 The Christian Science
Monitor. All rights reserved.
·
Monday, 15 January 2007 – Martin Luther
King Day
My hours, between
several other projects last week, were consumed with preparing two professional
papers for presentations at a workshop.
Oddly the presentations ended up being scuttled due to typical changes
to the plan. I did give one presentation
and elected to speak extemporaneously rather than use either of the prepared
remarks. I extrapolated on a previous
speaker’s remarks and discussed methods of integrating technology in the
classroom. My remarks were well received
and appropriate.
In our experiences
here, it seems like we often spend time preparing and then do not get to
present our efforts or vice versa: we show up at an event and suddenly find
ourselves in front of an audience and we are expected to lecture or perform or
teach.
Learning to be
flexible is good. Dealing with ambiguity
is a way of life here. Almost daily, our
plans change. Everything is tentative here. In our experiences in the USA, we are lead to
believe that we can control things. And
though we may give lip-service to flexibility and spontaneity, it is, like
control, kind of a myth.
Learning to look
past pride in personal authorship (or control) and respond to the immediate situation
is something to cultivate. It may be
about humility.
In any case, you
do not have to respond with irritation, bitterness or a sense of frustration.
You can simply move forward with enthusiasm and joy.
·
Sunday, 14 January 2007 - Old New Year’s Day
(Orthodox)
Electrishka Encounters – Caroling and
Groping
My old office
partner when I was a recruiter back in inner-city Boston used to find me
trapped behind my desk while some street person or old war veteran was ranting
away on the opposite side.
My partner would
smile and say to me, ”Remind me to speak to you later about your choice of
friends.” It was kind of a joke, but honestly I do seem to be a bit of a
freak-magnet. Now as then, this power
lingers. Read on.
Saturday night,
the event coordinator and her son-in-law escorted us to our seats on the
electrishka.
We said our
goodbyes and no sooner than they were gone than a rather odd, very drunk woman
latched onto my unsuspecting self. She
grabbed my arm and planted slobbery kisses on my arm, my hands and my
hair. She offered me swigs from her
almost empty cognac bottle, pouring it out into the cap, and pleading me to
drink. She shoved slices of bread
topped with thick slices of strong onions at me.
Uncomfortable and
not wishing to make a scene, I declined her drinks and food and tried to break
away diplomatically. Mark, still a bit
stunned by this sudden intense encounter was also a bit dumbfounded.
The woman,
harmless, but so very drunk, then tried to shove a couple hundred hryvnia into
my hands or pockets. She insisted I
drink. Bread and onions spit from her
lips as she spoke. She groped me and, as
Mark put it,”copped a feel” from him as she made her incoherent overtures. At one point she became angry and flung a
capful of cognac at Mark and slobbered into my hair.
Eventually, she
left the train, but as the car moved slowly down the track she pasted her face
against the windows and licked the glass.
She held up the money and hollered at us.
Did I mention she
groped us both rather intimately (no wallet or money missing ,but she came
close to a full body cavity search and moved at the speed of light!)
It was all over
before we knew it really.
I hope she is OK.
Later during the
two hour ride some teenage boys sang an Old New Year’s carol to us and the few
other people in our car.
McDs
We got off the
electrishka in Simferopol and before we boarded the train we decided to
celebrate Old New Year’s Eve with a real American treat – we splurge on a
McDonalds meal! On our end of the
peninsula, we have nooooo fast food, so a burger and fries is a real
treat.
Mark parked me
(and our bags) on the Kerch-bound train and went off to McD’s. He came back
with our feast which we ate in the privacy of our train car compartment. We made up our bunks and slept soundly as the
train raced down the track to meet the dawn.
·
Saturday, 13 January 2007 – Old New Year’s
Eve (Orthodox)
Dolphin Dancing…
The plan is to
visit the Dolphinarium then tour the Greek ruins and then attend a party to
celebrate Old New Year’s Eve. We pile
onto a small bus and crowd into the seats.
We wind through the city, making several stops to collect the tour
guide, the director’s grandchildren, and finally two Peace Corps Volunteers who
have recently been assigned to site. Now the aisle is jammed with standing
passengers and bags of food.
The Dolphinarium
is closed during the winter months and the inhabitants are maintained on a
Russian military compound. Guidebooks
say it is a world-class dolphin research center. Some of the dolphins are used to do research
on SONAR, and others travel with the circus (one group is currently touring
Turkey – they travel aboard ship!).
After showing our documents, the bus is waved onto the installation by
an officious gate guard wearing a fur hat.
It was delightful
to see these social creatures. They
seemed to welcome our visit – they leaped out of the water and chattered to us
as we approached. We were allowed to
approach them. I held out my hand and snapped my fingers. Several large
dolphins leaped up and danced backward across the water on their tails, just
like Flipper used to do on TV!
Later we heard a
short lecture on dolphins (dolphins have three stomachs; never sleep because they can switch back and
forth from one side of their brain to the other; and some dolphins can detect
illnesses and help realign molecular structure to return people to health!)
Later we watched a short show by a very large, loud sea lion.
Cherson Ruins
We returned to the
bus and made the trip to Cherson. We
wandered through the remarkable ruins of this ancient Greek settlement and
listened as a guide told us many detailed stories. It amused me to hear that this area was used
in the Russian film version of Pinocchio as the Land of Stupid People (where
Pinocchio buries his money).
In the same
compound as the Greek ruins and the monastery is a newly renovated Byzantine
cathedral (thanks to former President Kuchma and Russian President Putin). As we entered, a woman was ”renting” scarves
for women to don during their tour of the cathedral.
Dining and Dancing
After tramping
about outdoors, we headed to the military housing area to the bar where our Old
New Year’s Party would take place.
The hostess herded
all the women into one room and provided us with one big pink towel, a new bar
of soap and pointed to the cold-water tap.
I was first in line to clean up.
The cold water trickled out and felt refreshing as I washed away the
dirt of the day. Other women re-invented
themselves by applying fresh make-up, changing into skirts and adding
earrings. Others revealed party clothes
under the winter coats they wore all day.
I looked less festive than they did in my black jeans and sweater. At least I was clean!
In the dining
room, a Christmas tree stood on the tiny corner stage next a stripper’s
pole. The tables were all laid out with
lots of inviting small plates filled with Ukrainian salads, slices of oranges
and lemons and bread, sausage and cheese.
Each table had a bottle of wine, a bottle of champagne, a pitcher of
juice, and a decanter of cognac. There
were candles and music to welcome us.
The evening
unfolded, beginning with the presentation of official certificates of
participation (gotta have the official stamp!).
Next there was some toasting and then impromptu singing. The contingent
from central Ukraine sang some great Ukrainian harmony. We (the Americans) lead
the group in our traditional New Year’s song (stolen from the Scots!). Meanwhile we nibbled and drank.
Eventually the
dancing began. Ukrainians are exuberant
dancers and not too mindful about following or leading or having a
partner. It is fun to dance with
them…lots of circle dancing and foot moves.
Sometimes people just seem to hop up and down.
Later in the
evening a raffle was held and then some awards were presented. I received a prize as the best dancer!
On that note, we
headed off to the train station to make our way back to Simferopol to catch the
night train back to Kerch. We could see
fireworks in the sky outside the window as the electrishka left the train
station.
·
Friday, 12 January 2007
Shortly before 4AM
the conductor banged-open the door to our compartment and spit out a few
incomprehensible sentences in rapid-fire Russian.
Propping myself on
my elbow, I muttered, ”Da, da, da!
Spaciva!” (“Yes, yes, yes! Thank
you!”) I rubbed my eyes and then reached
across the narrow aisle to lovingly poke Mark in the ribs. The snoring immediately stopped as he sat up
and looked at me.
“Goooood morning!”
I chirped. “The bathroom doors will be locked soon, so rise and shine.”
We dressed
quickly, wolfed down some muesli mixed with yogurt (our standard train-travel
breakfast) and stripped our bunks in anticipation of our arrival in Simferopol.
This is a lousy
time to arrive anywhere, but this is not our destination. Our destination is Sevastopol where later in
the day, we will each do presentations at the Institute of Economics and Law. There is no direct train, so we have an
electrishka to catch.
We approach the
ticket window. A large cat rests on the
ledge and is oblivious to passengers making transactions inches away from his
nose. I scratch him behind the ears
while Mark buys the tickets.
The electrishka,
is well lit and has a dozen or so golden oak, hard benches flanking the center
aisle. This is a commuter train. The car is empty now, but at later stops
fills with workmen who chug beer and play cards enroute to work. At some stops they step outside to
smoke. I lean against Mark’s coat and
snooze for two hours.
The Hotel Romantique
We arrive in
Sevastopol as the sun comes up. Our
coordinator takes us to our accommodations to freshen up before we go to work.
The invitation indicated that the hotel is named “The Romantique” but upon
arrival at our suite, we understand this may be a small joke. The rooms are fine – clean, modest and rather
typical of modest accommodations available everywhere in Ukraine. We actually have a two bedroom flat. The bedrooms each have two narrow, Soviet-era
couches which convert to beds.
Presentations
We were originally
scheduled for two 90-minute presentations each, but typical of many functions
we have attended here, there are numerous changes between plans and
implementation. So tomorrow we will
deviate from the schedule because we have the unusual opportunity to get a
behind the scenes visit at the local “Dophinarium”. So, we will present today
and play tomorrow!
The sessions go
well, the audience is responsive. After
a long day, Mark and I are sound asleep at “The Romantique.” Before the clock
strikes 9PM.
Mark dragging the
bags (3 computers, cables, etc) on a Sevastopol street…that is Flat Paxton on
the stairs. He’s a paper visitor from a
5th grade class in Florida!
All over Ukraine there
are stairways to manage…in winter they are icy and snow covered. It is often hard to navigate.
·
Saturday, 6 January 2007 - Epiphany
When we realize that Life is Spirit, never in nor of matter,
this understanding will expand into self-completeness,
finding all in God, good,
and needing no other consciousness.
- Mary Baker Eddy, S & H, p.264
I hear
the dulcet tones of a woman singing “Silent Night.” She sings a cappella and in English, her
honeyed voice, so pure and sweet, I expect to see bees swarming around her
lips.
I walk
to the window, push back the curtain and peer outside, hoping to catch a
glimpse of this angel (and the imagined bees) but the music fades away and
there is no evidence on the street of anyone, singer or not.
This
is not usual.
Sitting
on my Soviet-era couch in my pre-Soviet era flat in my formerly Communist,
Russian-speaking community here by the Black Sea, it is pretty unlikely I would
hear anyone singing that song.
The
small store adjacent to our flat has a group of regulars who sit on the
terrace, swapping fishing tales and drinking vodka. They have been known to sing on occasion, but
those vodka-induced serenades disappear in colder months when they are forced
by Mother Nature to move to warmer climes.
But
frankly, their voices cannot be considered sweet.
I am
inclined to think my homesick heart simply conjured up this classic Christmas
carol. Maybe I just imagined it
all. As I turn from the window, I
realize the parakeets are warbling happily, in their delightful attempts to
harmonize. True to their lineage as
Ukrainian birds, they respond to music, eagerly joining in at the slightest
opportunity.
It
occurs to me that today is January 6th – Epiphany. I look up Epiphany in the dictionary:
1 capitalized : January 6 observed as a church festival in
commemoration of the coming of the Magi as the first manifestation of Christ to
the Gentiles or in the Eastern Church in commemoration of the baptism of Christ
2 : an appearance or
manifestation especially of a divine being
3 a (1) : a usually
sudden manifestation or perception of the essential nature or meaning of
something (2) : an intuitive grasp of
reality through something (as an event) usually simple and striking (3) : an illuminating discovery, realization,
or disclosure b : a revealing scene or
moment
On
that note, I simply smile, say a silent prayer of gratitude for this little
musical mystery and resume my daily studies with new enthusiasm and joy.
·
Friday, 5 January 2007
As mortals gain more correct views of God and man,
multitudinous objects of creation, which before were invisible,
will become visible.
- Mary Baker Eddy, S & H, p.264
So many
opportunities dance inside my head. I
play out whole life-times as I contemplate what lies ahead.
My tangent today
involves universities. As a returned Peace Corps Volunteer, Mark could be a
candidate for a Fellows program and work toward a Masters Degree. He could put together a very competitive package
with his varied education and life experiences stateside and abroad: proven
technology skills and experience, work in under-served communities and with
young people, experience with a variety of successful non-profits, his business
acumen and entrepreneurial spirit (and success), and his newly acquired Russian
language skills…not to mention his really great attitude and work ethic.
Will this be the
next adventure?
As our lives move
forward and this chapter draws to a close, I am becoming eager to see what
happens to the hero and the heroine.
What does the Author have in mind?
The future (and
the present too) is big with blessings!
·
Thursday, 4 January 2007 – My Mom &
Dad’s Anniversary
Today, I Feel Great…Except When the To-Do
List Rears its Ugly Head!
Across the
courtyard on this very grey day, the laundry snaps in the blustery wind. The sheets and trousers are horizontal. A babushka leans on her walking stick, her
skirt flutters around her heavy calves as she makes her way to the bench
outside her flat.
Several
neighborhood cats appear, as if blown in on the wind. They rub against the thick grey felt boots
the woman wears. They trail behind her
in a parade, as if she is the Pied Piper and they are not cats, but rats. She ignores them for a moment as she adjusts
her scarf and settles onto the bench.
Then finally she digs into her pocket and pulls out a scrap of greasy
newspaper. I watch her pop a bite into
her mouth before she bends down to share the kielbasa with her entourage of
orange cats.
Today I have no
agenda outside the flat. But I have a
very long list of commitments to tackle, for people outside my flat. It is hard to separate the important from the
urgent. I feel a bit resentful
maybe… When this kind of feeling
attempts to dominate my thinking, my usual recourse is almost as simple as
reframing my attitude (though really it is more
spiritually/scientifically-based than that - "Prayer cannot change the
Science of being, but it tends to bring us into harmony with it). I
look at the situation and consider what a blessing it is to be of use, to have
an abundance of tasks which matter, an opportunity to use my creative skills,
the autonomy to direct my activities. I
consider these blessings as opportunities to express joy and thankfulness. I will not let anything steal my joy! "
I consider the
babushka and her cats. They look to her for sustenance. They are more than
hopeful, they are certain she will provide for them. The lesson I am studying this week (about
God) talks about the loaves and fishes and about the prodigal son. I reflect on elements of those stories as I
look out the window. Outside, the bench
is empty, the cats have dispersed. I
consider how like a shepherd the babushka woman is with her cats whom she lovingly,
faithfully cares for, expecting nothing in return, delighting in their pleasure
and joy and innocence.
My thoughts begin
to weave all these things together – this tapestry-in-the-making is not ready
to share I guess. I cannot articulate it
just now, but there is suddenly a great sense of peace within my heart.
I feel as light
and buoyant as that laundry flying parallel to the earth.
·
Wednesday, 3 January 2007 – Full Moon!
Weak as a Kitten…
I spent the first
two days of 2007 buried under a comforter on the couch. I felt as weak and sleepy as a kitten. I dozed and woke periodically. Mark made sure I considered eating and by
presenting me with food offerings, but I declined food since the thought of it
made me queasy.
I could not even
read a book or concentrate on knitting or writing. I just stayed horizontal.
Today I am dressed
and considering what to do about English Club.
The phrase ”What does not kill you, makes you stronger” runs through my
head. I am not sure that is applicable.
We Let ’em Fly…
On Monday, the
first day of the brand new year, we opened the door on the bird cage and
invited our parakeets to fly.
Our Ukrainian
associates seem put-off by the fact that 1.) We have two birds in one cage
(they will never learn to speak – hmm, maybe that is why our own Russian
speaking skills are so limited!) and 2.) We never let them fly around the
flat.
So on 1 January,
we began the New Year with a green parakeet and a blue parakeet honing their
navigational skills in our small living/bedroom. They were slow to leave the safety of their
cage. When they finally took wing, they
created quite a stir. They resembled miniature
helicopters. They seemed to hover as
they negotiated and experimented with appropriate places to perch. Several times they seemed to throw their
fragile bodies against the wall-perhaps they overshot their landing site. Two
amateur ”pilots” trapped in a small flat made for some excitement.
Of course I was
prone on the couch, not fully capable of enjoying the whole experience. I did laugh when both birds decided to land
on Mark’s bald pate!
We assumed the
birds, like chickens, would naturally return to their digs when night fell and
it was time to cozy up and roost for the night.
Greenie, went in and out of the cage, but Blue-gie, either did not
understand the concept or did not care to go inside. They perched atop their
cage rather than inside. When we headed
off to bed for the night, the two birds were still free.
At about 3AM, I
awoke to the sound of urgent fluttering and small bird-bodies bumping into the
walls. I struggled out of my stupor,
fighting my nausea, to perform a rescue mission for my panicked birdbrain
friends. I turned on a bright lamp,
which stunned the birds and was able to simply grab them with barely a
struggle. I popped them into their
habitat and placed a cover over them before I stumbled back into bed.
·
Tuesday, 2 January 2007
Lenin looking at
the Kerch holiday tree. (Yeah, I added the festive hat!)
Monday,
1 January 2007- NEW YEARS DAY!
2007 – THE YEAR OF THE
PIG! GOODBYE YEAR OF THE DOG!
F & L Called! 8-)
It is always great
to hear from family and friends! Those
two are starting the New Year in the hot tub after a gig (with the band) at the
Officer’s Club.
Brother, Can You Spare a Dime?
While we were on
the phone with L & F, an elderly neighbor lady (whom we seldom see and
rarely speak to) saw me by the window. She gestured to me to unlock the outside
door. I anticipated holiday greetings,
so I was a bit surprised when she asked for money. She did not get her pension check (about $50
a month). Her electricity is turned off. Can we give her 10 Hryvnia (that’s
around $2…many people we know make about $10 a day)? Happy New Year!
Brief Re-Cap of New Years Eve in Kerch
New Year’s Eve in
Ukraine belongs to family and close friends. With New Year’s trees to decorate
and the arrival of Grandfather Frost and Snow Maiden (gifts!), people want to
stay close to home, so they typically, as all Ukrainians do for any sort of celebration,
gather around the dining table. The
table, laden with food and drink, and the family, are the center of life here.
Since we have no
family here, we decided to take our champagne to the town square where a huge
festive tree was erected right in front of Lenin’s statue. We hoped there might be some organized events
there around midnight.
It was pretty low
key. Maybe a hundred people were there to toast in the New Year under the
enormous tree. The President made a
speech on the radio. All around the
square people sipped their champagne and listened quietly.
There was no
count-down, no singing of Auld Lang Syne – it was kind of a non-event. There were fireworks around the city and
after the President’s speech, music played on the radio and some people
danced.
About 1230, our
Ukrainian friend suggested we go to his flat for a few traditional Ukrainian
dishes his mother had prepared, so we did.
We sampled some excellent Shuba (means fur coat in Russian –a beet
salad) and Salad Olivia (another wonderful salad) and also a helping of
holidets (aspic- very rich and strong – sort of like a stew).
We lingered a
while, ad headed home around 0230. We
decided to walk since the weather was pleasant.
It was odd to see all the lights on in the apartment buildings so late
at night. Usually by 2 the street lights
are even turned off and the apartment buildings are dark. Clearly people were celebrating!
When we reached
the town square, enroute home, we found it quite lively at 3AM! There were performers on the stage and
dancers packed the area round the tree dancing and laughing.
We were finally
home and snug in our bed around 5AM – the neighbor’s lights were still
shining!
TO READ
DECEMBER POSTS OR OTHER OLDER ENTRIES,
RETURN TO
THE ARCHIVES ON THE LEFT.
XXX