·
Sunday, 29 April 2007
Probably my Last Post in April &
Definitely my Last Post in Crimea!
I am at the
Internet Center at the Children’s Library (one of the two Internet Centers Mark
helped get up and running during his Peace Corps experience!). Patrons can use the centers for free, so
there are restrictions on how much stuff you can down load and up load. Since
this is my last Sunday here, I hoped to splurge a bit and post a few rather
random photos here…but too much is going on…lots of last minute requests,
goodbyes, teabreaks….nice to be wanted… Sooooo, just a quick note…
We will hit the
road Tuesday and our Internet access will be erratic for a few weeks at
least. I will continue to write offline
and post when possible, so continue to check back for the details of Post-Peace
Corps live and the challenges and joys of our transition back to the USA!
Keep sending the
e-mail! 8-)
·
Friday, 27 April 2007
Yesterday the
patio outside our street-side window sprouted tables and chairs. Outdoor drinking
officially began.
During winter the
“regulars” often hunker over illicit drinks, using our window sill as an
impromptu bar. More often, they would
squat on their heels near the curb across the street and quickly share a few
shots of vodka. (They carry shot glasses
in their pockets.) During the cold
months, they drink, but they do not loiter, even with a little anti-freeze in
their systems, it is too cold.
Now that the
tables and chairs are available, they have the luxury to linger longer. They are
more effusive; talking, laughing and arguing for hours. They are raucous, reminding me of a flock of
large crows. My Russian vocabulary
expands as I overhear the colorful stories they share and the idle gossip and
flirting too. The rule is you must finish
the bottle once it is opened. New
friends arrive, new bottles are opened. Hours later, they stagger home.
The discos, cafes
and bars in the nearby, seaside park have been painting, planting and
cleaning. Many will try to open in May
because there are many holidays; the potential for customers is big. May is a tease though –the weather can be
mild and inviting one day and chilling the next.
People are eager
to be outdoors.
·
Thursday, 26 April 2007 – Chernobyl
Remembrance Day
Last night on our way home from the
library, we stopped at the Chernobyl monument up the street from our flat.
About a thousand other people were there too.
Many people
carried candles and flowers for this annual vigil. Solemn music poured out of a sound system
while people passed by the statue, depositing their bouquets and burning
candles. The mayor spoke, candlelight reflecting in his eyes. There was a 21-gun salute. A pageant
followed.
It has been 21
years since the heinous events of that day and the days following. Though Chernobyl is a long ways north (near
the Belarusian border), people from Kerch were part of the rescue and recovery
events. Many people lost their lives.
(See my last year’s journal notes for more details).
Today there will
be other events. Official flags, with
black streamers attached, are flying at half mast.
Radiation is still
a concern in areas near the city and where waste was improperly disposed of
(ie: Kerch Strait).
(The photo of the monument,
a daylight shot, does not depict the flowers and candles. The photos of the
memorial service did not turn out – candlelight is tricky. The monument is a
dramatic, modern sculpture – a powerful image of a woman holding a dying
child.)
A Further Note about Ukrainian Monuments…
People here are
quite proud of the monuments in their city.
No community is without monuments.
When they ask us about our hometown, invariably they ask about how many
monuments we have. (I invariably stifle
an irreverent laugh and refrain from telling about the Floyd Monument, built on
the site where a member of the Lewis and Clark expedition happened to die of
appendicitis – an amusing and true tale, but not very respectful.)
In Ukraine, People
frequently place flowers on public monuments to mark special days. Of course wedding parties go from monument to
monument, paying respects by leaving behind bouquets and having a champagne
toast at each stop. (Could this reflect on the Communist era when religion was
forbidden? Honoring their fallen leaders
and the Motherland…hmmmm.)
·
Wednesday, 25 April 2007
Sudden Changes at the Last Minute…
This has happened
before. Why is it that people organize going-away functions and fail to invite
or inform the people being honored? I will
not elaborate on this idea, but it has happened several times in the past.
(Yes, perhaps they are actually celebrating our departure and do not really
want us there. A possibility, but not likely.)
At 10 AM I am in
the midst of an aggressive schedule of doing laundry, cleaning, and sorting. I
eagerly anticipate some quiet time to plan a suitable English Club ”last act”.
The phone rings.
Sometimes I simply do not answer the phone.
But I pick up the receiver.
“Hello, my beautiful bride,” I hear Mark say. “You need to be at the library by 1130. It may be business, or it may be a farewell
luncheon.”
I quickly hang up
the laundry, run a comb through my rather dirty hair and decide to just plain
avoid looking in the mirror! (What I
don’t see won’t bother me!) I quickly
throw on some decent clothes, load my big, red tote-bag with a few mementos I
plan to share and begin my hike cross-town in the bright Spring sunshine.
The Event Is, of Course, a Farewell
Luncheon.
L. gives each of
us a large, beautiful decorative decanter filled with premium Ukrainian horilka
(vodka). Mark’s is a wonderful Cossack and mine is a delightful Ukrainian woman
in folk dress. She also presents Mark
with a special certificate of appreciation from the Crimean Ministry of Culture.* We linger around the table after much
conversation, laughter, eating and toasting.
We sip tea and talk about everything under the sun.
Finally at 1700 I
just have time to slip away do a quick errand and then return to the library
for my 1730 English Club farewell. The room is crowded with many familiar
faces. We have lively conversations and more laughter and then sad
goodbyes.
So the whole day
and evening are filled with many very kind words and tears and laughter and
small gifts and flowers; lots of posing for cameras and exchanging
addresses.
Thursday is Mark’s
last day at work. There will be students to say farewell to and there will be
goodbyes with the staff at the Children’s Library. Then it is on to see his Russian tutor one
last time; more goodbye-ing.
More about Ukrainian Toasting Traditions…
In our final week
in Kerch we learned that the third toast is traditionally for the
sailors/seamen. In most places the third toast is to the women.
* L. says the recognition
is posted on the US Embassy website.
·
Monday, 23 April 2007
I read in an
article about a war correspondent’s experience with night-vision goggles
(NVGs). The man, Walter Rodgers, was
caught up in the beauty of the star-filled heavens over the Afghan desert. A
Marine Corps officer encouraged him to strap on the NGVs and have another
look. Rodgers was awed by what he
saw. “…stars beyond reckoning, a hundred
times more than were visible to the naked eye…words like trillions and billions
lost all meaning.”
Rodgers went on to
say, that he viewed this experience “…as a metaphor for God’s infinite
abundance.” The article goes on to discuss how the good we seek, the
intelligence and resources we need are, like all those unseen stars, already
there. These infinite blessings are
there, but we cannot humanly divine them.
We spiritualize our thinking…and see that what we need is available,
always has been.
It is an inspiring
article: Page 23, in the 23 April 2007 Christian
Science Sentinel.
·
Saturday, 21 April 2007
Climbing up the rugged path to explore the
deserted ruins of Yeni Kale (a wonderful Turkish Fort at northern edge of Kerch
near the mouth of the Sea of Azov), we encounter an unlikely pair of
hikers. These elderly matrons look like
they would be more comfortable strolling along the seaside park in the city
central. The women negotiate the uneven
terrain and manage to keep up a lively stream of gossip as they climb. They are dressed for less rigorous
activities: stockings, dressy shoes, hair coiffed.
I am still amazed to find Ukrainian women
wearing impractical shoes in the most unlikely places.
There is a strong
wind. I feel uncomfortable standing on
the precipice, imagining a sudden gust sending me sailing over the edge. The panorama is wonderful though, so I stand
my ground and gaze out at miles of grass (a sea of grass) and wildflowers
dancing in the wind. There is a lighthouse in the distance. The sea is alive with ships. Russia’s coastline is so near.
The wind is fierce
so we elect to postpone our picnic, but the sky is blue and bright and there
are inviting places to linger.
As we stroll back
through the near by sleepy village, I watch chickens scratching in the road and
admire the tulips and garden greenery.
I imagine buying a
small dacha here by the sea and making it home.
I pick up my pace
and move on quickly toward the marshrutka which will take us back to town.
Later, we lunch on
blini at a student café in the central city. We see the two sturdy hikers
there. We laugh and wave. They laugh and
wave.
·
Friday, 20 April 2007
I Feel Like a Movie Star…
I made a return
visit to School #28 and worked with two other classes. My goal: to get the students to speak and
express ideas in English.
I am not sure who
finds these activities more enjoyable, me or the students, but I use all my
theatrical and dramatic talents, throw in the element of surprise and some
gentle prodding and joking. I am
exhilarated by them. I watch their eyes
and know when to back off and when to prod and push a bit. I throw in some philosophy and values and
sometimes a bit of poetry or a song. I
build on their successes - confidence is important in everything, but especially
in learning a language.
The second group I
worked with surprised me with an elegantly wrapped bouquet of long stemmed red
roses. Then the usual photo session started. Mobile phones pop out from many
pockets and we strike various poses.
When they tire of
documenting the event, the students push pens and papers into my hand, asking
for autographs! I am surrounded by a
bevy of fans.
This is as close
to being a celebrity as I will ever come!
·
Thursday, 19 April 2007
The “AT” Symbol = @
In Russian, the
term for this symbol (@) is the word they use for dog (coboka)! So when I give my e-mail address, I say
“v-j-p-u-l-v-e-r-dog-p-u-l-v-e-r-p-a-g-e-s.com.”
This makes me
laugh.
The Kerch Library has a Red Hat Club!
I read something
about Laughing Clubs, a funny form of Yoga which started in India. That
prompted me to choose clubs as an English Club topic.
Before I got
around to telling Mark about the topic, he mentioned that L., the Library
Director, has started a Red Hat Society right here in Kerch!
Now that makes me
laugh a happy laugh!
I know they will
have so much fun with this club…I am sorry I have to leave – I would love to
join them!
Current Events Outside our Cozy Life in
Kerch:
·
The School Shootings in America
The news school shooting rampage at VMI in
America is starting to filter in. Without the BBC radio broadcast and Voice of
America, we no longer have any immediate access to world news. The Ukrainian TV
shares some details, but not much. And of course, since the national language
is Ukrainian, the news broadcast is in Ukrainian – never mind that a huge
percentage of the Ukrainian population speaks only Russian. So, we must simply
guess at the details.
Over 30 are dead
and many more injured.
I imagine our
media folks, like vipers, are pursuing the ugly path of placing blame, casting
aspirations and pompously pointing fingers rather than dealing with this
tragedy with dignity and respect.
They spew venom,
incite anger and fear. It is not proactive behavior, nor is it responsible
behavior. I do not like the way our
culture responds to crisis. (As if anyone can foresee the future or really
control events…)
·
The Ukrainian President May Be Impeached!
The political news
here is not good. The word ”impeachment” is being used. This is all a fancy
game of chess and very disheartening for the people of Ukraine.
·
Meanwhile, in Russia, Our Neighbor to the
East…
News reports say
Russia’s President Putin is responding with heavy hands to many civil issues
-protestors, peaceful or otherwise, are being beaten, journalists are
”disappearing”… Mr. Putin does not want an “Orange Revolution” (like Ukraine
had in autumn 2004) on his (bloody) hands.
·
Wednesday, 18 April 2007
There are Baby Kittens in our Courtyard!
The store cat has
taken to visiting us each morning lately. She is hugely pregnant, consequently
always hungry, and wary of the 4 puppy-hoodlums who make life at the store
doorway impossible for a slow-moving, soon-to-be mom. I have seen her
scrambling to escape the playful pups.
Climbing a tree is not easy when you are pregnant.
So the easy life
cadging food outside the store is not so easy these days.
Today she arrives
just as Mark leaves for work. I can see
she has delivered her kittens! I slip
back into the flat and return with a box of cat chow and give her a generous
serving.
I hope we will see
the kittens before we leave. I hope the
two terrorist dogs in our courtyard will not savage them.
Last spring one of
the cats moved her two newborns to a precarious perch on the roof of the
lean-to next door. It was amusing to
watch them mewing and playing but it was also alarming. Like little birds, they eventually had to
leave their nest. It is quite a
leap. I turned my head when they bravely
took to the air.
Those two kittens
were my little circus performers. Sadly they were among those poisoned.
I miss the
cat-gang that used to entertain me with their antics and amaze me with their
grace and simple joy in living. Since
Cat-Woman died last Fall, our courtyard cat population has dwindled down to
only two, Dusty and Petunia.
But now the store
cat (and crew) has arrived, at least temporarily.
The rest, were
victims of deliberate poisoning – a well-intentioned attempt to keep the cats from starving or otherwise
suffering since Cat-Woman would no longer be there to feed them three times a
day and to shoo away predators and find shelter for them…she was their
patron-saint.
Most every
courtyard has a benefactor like this; someone who provides for the cats and
dogs that roam freely.
My Regulars…
Dustinovsky, one
of my two regulars, is a compact, gentle, affectionate cat, but a fighter. He
has only a stump of a tail now and always sports bloody, raw spots on his
neck. He arrives each morning and
perches on our windowsill, catching the morning sunlight (and my
attention).
I open the window
a crack and wiggle my fingers. He
stretches his lean body and reaches a paw out to me and meows a greeting. Dusty rubs against the windowpane and bats at
the glass.
Petunia, Dusty’s
sister, is a bit more sedate. She stares at me through the window, but will
have none of the conversation or interaction.
She looks past me, no doubt remembering the time when I (inadvertently)
placed the parakeet cage on that very windowsill. She had a ringside seat. The poor parakeets were no doubt terrorized,
but Petunia was delighted! She sat
mesmerized by the two birds, just inches away, a thin pane of glass separating
her from a delicious delicacy.
Now Water all Day Today…
I want to shower,
need to shower…I sponge bathe with bottled water. The dirty dishes can wait…
·
Tuesday, 17 April 2007
Pre-Packing and Dealing with the Post
Office…
Gotta register for
Space-A travel today and I also plan to pack my bags and see what else I need
to leave behind. Sigh…
We have mailed 15
packages. This is a huge ordeal here
since you can not just box stuff up, tape it shut, drive to the post office and
give them cash. Nooooo. They have to weigh the box and the each item
sooooo everyone in the post office sees that you are paying big bucks to mail
home cheesy beach towels or other odd stuff. And there is always an ”audience”
for every performance by the crazy Americans!
There’s a limit to
how much stuff can go in each box or envelope, so you have to make spur of the moment
decisions about what to remove.
Meanwhile, the clerk looks up values in an official book and fills out
several official forms, uses official tape to seal the box in an official way. Then the clerk stamps an un-official piece of
paper, uses scissors (I presume the scissors are also official) to cut out each
official stamp. She applies glue and
sticks these odd stamps on the package. We watched her put 27 such stickers on
one small box.
Then she must use an
adding machine, a pad of paper and a pencil and a computer to tally the
damage. But first, she tidies up her
desk a bit, so she can concentrate.
Throughout the
entire process, the phone rings. She does not answer it. She keeps her mind on the job at hand.
People enter the office and presume the clerk will stop to help them, but she
tells them point blank: ”Go away. I am
busy.” People here often presume they
can go to the front of the line and there is no pretense of asking first. Clerks learn to cope with assertive
customers. It can be an interesting
dance. Only the most tenacious (and
experienced) babushkas can shame the clerk into pausing to sell a stamp.
Our last post
office adventure, we mailed 6 packages and not counting waiting in line (I did
not time that part of the adventure, but a half-hour wait is not unusual) the
transaction took 1 hour and 16minutes.
Frankly I think our clerk (there is only one) took
some pleasure in making some pushy patrons wait while she completed our transaction
– kind of a power trip for her. Post
office patrons are rather abrupt and demanding here.
Well, I hope my
cheesy beach towels make it back to the USA.
And I hope I do not have to make a return trip to the local post office
to mail more stuff home.
·
Monday, 16 April 2007
Impromptu School Visit…
I spent the
morning arranging logistics for obtaining needed items for a local foundation
that supports an orphanage and assists with rehabilitating alcoholics and drug
abusers. The foundation hosts English
and culture classes to help support their other projects.
The director (N.)
is very resourceful and despite initial appearances she does get things
done. I came away from her office with a
to-do list and a smile. The smile,
because the to-do list had several new items, unrelated to my original agenda.
This woman knows
how to network and organize! As I left,
N. walked with me. We crossed the street
to the school to visit the toilets (it is not uncommon for offices to NOT have
toilet facilities) and before I knew it, she Had me in front of a classroom
filled with eager 7-8yearolds, making an impromptu visit!
What a delightful
group of students they were! I
introduced myself in Russian and then switched to English, asking them “How are
you?” They stood and gave me the
standard choral reply, the whole group responding in sing-songy voice: “We are
very fine, thank you!”
I asked if they
could sing me a song in English and they did.
I joined in and made animal sounds and appropriate gestures and was
rewarded with many giggles and smiles.
Then I suggested ”Head, Shoulders, Knees and Toes” which they
recognized. So we all sang very loudly and did the motions too. Each verse we
went faster and faster…
The children are
charming - little blond girls in braids and pullover sweaters, little boys in
ties and jackets; they are so confident and comfortable with themselves at this
age.
This school
building, just off the city center, is older than the USA by about 300 years –
and still in operation. It is clean and
neat, and the walls have beautiful murals.
The hallways are dark (people in homes, businesses and schools do not
turn on the lights until sunset). The
stone stairways are worn down beyond belief.
The desks each hold two students. They resemble those used in old rural
schools in the USA back in pioneer days, though these are enameled with bright
paint to make them fresh.
·
Sunday,15 April 2007
Brrrrr…it is Wintry Again!
The
prognosticators say temperatures are going to drop below freezing (at night)
this week and it feels like they maybe right!
The city heat has
been off for weeks now, so we all have to bundle up indoors to be
comfortable. I try not to use the
electric space heater until evening, but is is quite chilly indoors this time
of year.
Today at the
library, employees are wearing their coats indoors and hunching over their
work. Mark seldom thinks it is cold,
and is likely to mention the idea of poor circulation when I mention being
cold, but he is muttering under his breath about the cold.
I can see his
breath!
Rain is in the
forecast too. Cold rain.
We have had mild
weather this winter and spring I guess.
When the snow flies I deal with the cold better than this time of year
when everything is green and flowers bloom, birds sing, and the sky is so
blue.
And just when warm
weather stabilizes here in Kerch, we head north. We are spending the first half of May in
colder zones.
When I get really
cold, I head for the shower and use up all the hot water (in a matter of
minutes) – I get clean and warmed to the bone. Then I bundle up and then I
hover over the electric heater for a while.
·
Saturday,14 April 2007
A Short, Insightful Tale on Business
Practices in Ukraine …
The foundation N.
directs has offices and classrooms in a local hotel near the stadium. The space
is donated to them and provides a wonderful setting for her operations.
They may have to
move soon.
Business interests
from Western Ukraine showed up recently with documents showing that they own
the facility. The local owners contested this surprising news and showed
documents demonstrating their rights to the building. There was a standoff and then the events
escalated, and it became ugly fast!
The businessmen
from Western Ukraine somehow “high jacked” the facility; have turned off the
water; and made toilets off limits to all. Let me remind you, this is a
hotel! There are also other tenants
including the foundation and a variety of hairdressers, banks and insurance
companies who operate out of this hotel too.
This inconvenience is designed to get tenants out of the facility. The
businessmen are said to have also used other tactics, such as using toxic paints
in closed areas. Don’t like the noxious
fumes? Well just move out!
Ambulances came,
police are involved and there is a court case pending, but this is a country
where there is really no law. (May I
remind you, the President recently disbanded the Parliament and the whole
government is being contested!) This is
an ugly situation, intolerable really, but agents have far bigger fish to fry,
so it is likely nothing will happen.
People learned
their business practices under the Soviet regime. Bribes, corruption and other unsavory practices
are the norm. The lack of transparency and money makes being a person of
integrity and a business owner more of a challenge than we can even imagine in
the USA.
·
Thursday, 12 April 2007 – Day of the
Cosmonaut
Some Details of my Day…School #28
Today, I woke to
the alarm clock (usually I simply awaken at will) because I had an 0830
commitment miles south of our flat. By
0800, Mark and I were at the marshrutka stop and soon we were bouncing down the
rutted, dusty road to School #28.
On such a fine Spring
day, it is a pleasant ride – the dachas (tiny farm cottages) on the hillside
are lost among the white and pink blossoms.
Cows and calves are tied to trees along the road. They graze contentedly.
A babushka boards
the van, a spade in one hand and a plastic bag overflowing with day lilies in
her other hand. I spent my commute
thinking about what a lovely day she had ahead of her – working in the rich,
black Crimean earth, later sipping tea
in a sunny spot, watching cats, chickens, and children enjoying life.
At the last stop,
our English teaching friend met us and escorted us to her school. Mark turned me over to her and headed off to
the Children’s Library to handle his Internet Center work and to teach, coach
and motivate his young aspiring newsletter crew.
School #28 is very
old. This school serves outlying (rural)
areas so pupils take the bus in from small villages. Declining populations leave many classrooms
empty. The neighborhood is shabby. Trash
and graffiti are evident. Inside the
building, corridors are dark and musty, but the classrooms have large windows
and the sun shines in today.
My day was spent
in various classrooms. I do not ever
profess to “teach” English, but I do enjoy offering students of English an
opportunity to practice their skills in a non-threatening, playful
setting.
Today I worked
with two groups of secondary school students, one younger group (14-15 years
old) and an older group in their last year of school l- they will finish school (they say “leave”, we
say “graduate”) at Last Bell ceremonies in May.
I throw my
energies into this kind of work – my theater experience and sense of drama
surfaces. I improvise, play-act and keep
the students on their toes. I surprise them, challenge them, but leap in to
support them. I allow them (encourage
them) to laugh at themselves, but never put anyone in the hot seat for
long. I look in their eyes and tease
them…I love it.
American teachers
have a different approach to many of the tasks involved in teaching. Our
approaches are different, not better or worse, but different. We ask why and discuss things…there may be
more than one answer. There is room for opinion, discourse. Here, answers seem more about right or wrong.
These students are
not exposed to this American style and so they stay engaged and alert as I work
with them. I am successful at keeping
them thinking and getting them to take small risks, to guess or to find another
way to answer. The idea is to
communicate.
I always come away
from these sessions with more confidence in my own humble Russian communication
skills. I channel my limited skills,
using self-disclosure and citing my own problems and experiences as a novice
speaker of another language to help the students. If nothing else, the students may see that
making mistakes is not fatal.
A bevy of English
teachers meets me after my first session.
I am ”booked” for a return visit with several other classes.
The English teachers
amuse me a bit; they are almost as shy as their students about speaking in
English. Some are actually quite fluent
and articulate while others may be book smart, but cannot seem to converse or
communicate outside the discipline of a structured class.
Why? Perhaps because of the way corrections are
handled here – the teacher is “always” quick to correct even the slightest
error. The teachers are self-conscious with a native English speaker, afraid I
will correct them.
My personal style
is different, and so is my goal. In my
capacity, I coach and motivate, I facilitate, I encourage, I focus on
understanding and communication. My goal
is to teach them coping skills, help them learn to cope and be resourceful, to
apply what they do know…and maybe someday they will feel confident and
comfortable. And to build on success…
What good is it to
learn language and grammar if you are too self-conscious to use it?
Having said this,
I must admit, my heart often pounds before a public encounter where I must
speak Russian. Even just indicating to
the driver on the marshrutka that I want off at the next stop, requires me to
steel my nerves. Sometimes the problem
is that the driver may respond with a question or make a comment which I do not
understand and I sub-consciously think I will stand there, dumbfounded, groping
for words, while everyone on the marshrutka laughs and points at the ignorant
American.
So, my sessions
went well. Afterward there were photo
sessions with some of the students and then I boarded the marshrutka and headed
north, back to my cozy flat by the sea, my head filled with memories of happy
students.
Life Does Not Get Much Better Than This…
I often find
myself thinking this. I puzzle over
these feelings a bit, wondering if this happiness comes with maturity or is
conjured up by surroundings or perhaps it is just magic.
Today is one of
those extraordinary Spring days that poets write about. In Moscow there are blizzards this week, but
here in Kerch, it is proper spring.
It is the kind of
Spring day to etch into memory.
The sun is warm;
flowers and trees are blooming, their sweet perfumes filling the air; the sea
is azure and the details that belie perfection fade away. The trash and broken glass on the ground, the
uneven pavement, graffiti, crumbling buildings, mangy dogs, drunks and other
harsh facts of life are less stark than in the cold, dark days of winter. (It is like when you see a friend from long
years ago and as soon as they laugh and begin to speak, when you smell their
signature cologne or see that familiar gesture or sparkle in the eye, the
wrinkles and grey hair recede and they become young, fresh, filled with hope.)
No, No Water Today…
You get used to it
I guess…
·
Wednesday, 11 April 2007 – Kerch Liberation
Day*
Where will we be
next year at this time?
I have no idea.
In the past decade
we have lived in Texas, California, South Carolina and Ukraine. We’ve made
several cross-country trips in the USA, spent a month in Africa, plus family visits
and vacations at various stateside locations (SW, SE, and Midwest)… I spent 45
days in DC, 45 days in Chicago, 45 days in Georgia, and 45 days in Minneapolis
too.
You just never
know what adventure is ahead.
I may not know
where we will be next year, but I do know we will be in Kiev in just three
weeks.
*See my last years’ entry for the history
of Kerch Liberation Day
·
Tuesday,10 April 2007 - 1st
Anniversary of the Internet Center
This morning, I tossed out the last of the
Easter bread.
Friday, L. sent
home three large loaves of traditional Easter Bread with Mark. The bread is rich with eggs and has some
dried fruit in it. The loaves are topped with powdered sugar frosting and
colorful sprinkles. They resemble tall, oversized cupcakes or bizarre, fantasy
mushrooms ala Alice through the looking glass.
It is traditional
to bake this bread (read my 2005 and 2006 journals for more on Ukrainian and/or
Russian Easter customs) and there are many beliefs associated with the
process.
You can buy them
rather than bake them. They come in all sizes. They are everywhere. They are not wrapped and sit, shoulder to
shoulder, on cardboard trays, on display at all the outdoor markets and in
shops. The sticky-sweet scent is in the
air.
L. did not bake
hers. And since we received them on
Friday, I suspect they were not blessed by the priest.
Mark made an
interesting French Toast with some of the bread. I nibbled at the tops.
We did make some
Ukrainian Easter eggs this year.
We also spent part
of the day watching Omar Sharif in the story of Moses. (It is amazing all that Moses went
through.)
We did not visit
the Orthodox churches at midnight to watch the impressive blessing of the bread
and eggs or view the midnight processions (Priests carry icons out of the
church and circle it three times).
We did not feast
all night (and drink, dance and sing) with friends and family as many people
do. We did hear our neighbors coming
home at dawn to sleep a bit before beginning a second round of sitting around
the table eating, drinking, singing and dancing.
Monday was a
recovery day. The streets of Kerch were
empty and quiet.
Today, it is
business as usual again.
This was our third
Easter in Ukraine. Next year maybe the
Easter Bunny will visit us somewhere in the USA!
·
Monday, 9 April 2007
We are out of Gas
Mark’s doing our
cooking on a hotplate these days. The shiny, new, electric appliance perches
precariously atop the old two-burner gas range. Now with only one burner and no
oven, our meals are becoming much simpler, but actually the preparations become
more challenging.
Many PCVs here do
all their cooking on hotplates.
Many working-class
Ukrainian families still live in one or two room flats with minimal kitchen
arrangements. There may be a tiny sink,
a hot plate and an ancient tiny refrigerator (or no refrigerator…you shop daily
and cleanup your plate or eat leftovers for breakfast!). These tiny flats are a carry-over from when
the communists eliminated personal property and divided up old homes and large
flats, throwing many people into tiny accommodations. Later they built the grim, stark 5-6 story
complexes one associates with old B&W films of Soviet-era life.
This year Kerch
installed city gas lines (above ground eyesores, but a boon for users
really). Each flat has a drop. This
means many people can switch from expensive electric appliances and convert to
gas.
Up until recently,
we cooked on a gas range, using bottled gas.
We kept our fingers crossed that our bottle of gas would last until we
leave (1 May) or that the new gas line in our kitchen would be
operational. Finding a new bottle could
be a challenge. With the impending
change-over, the bottled-gas business has disappeared.
Unfortunately, we
lost that bet. The tiny blue flame under
Mark’s pot of breakfast cereal sputtered and went out for the last time. And, at the start of a long holiday
weekend. No holiday baking.
What to do? Well, in typical American fashion, we threw
money at the situation. We simply went
to the bazaar and bought a shiny new, one-burner hotplate. (About one-day’s wages, but less than a sixth
of the cost of a new bottle of gas, IF we could find a new bottle of
gas!).
As usual, the
seller pulls the appliance from the box, plugs it in and demonstrates that it
indeed works. (Regardless of what you buy here, the salesperson will perform
this ritual dance of opening the item and demonstrating that it works, lest you
get home and discover the tube of lipstick, light bulb or immersion heater you
bought is defective. Food salespeople
also insist you sample the salad, honey or sour cream you intend to purchase,
but that is another story.)
So, for the next
three weeks (our last three weeks in Kerch) we are eating one-dish meals. The
hotplate will be added to the stack of luxury items that we will donate to the
library ladies when we leave.
I am
self-conscious and almost painfully aware of how often we project the image of
being spendthrifts. People (some people)
assess us by what they find in our trash and by the choices we make when we
shop. It is hard to explain how much of
our lives are on display here and how many of our choices become topics of
conversation or the basis for people’s opinions. This is not paranoia; it is a very real part
of the challenge of living in a different culture.
One PCV mentioned
that she routinely burns her trash in the kitchen sink to avoid confrontations
from the local babushka.
·
Sunday,
8 April 2007- Easter Sunday
I read an
interview with author Grace Paley. There
was a reference to her uncle who was killed in a demonstration in Czarist
Russia. He carried the red flag of the
working class in that parade. The advice
Paley’s aunt shared with her is telling. ”Don’t carry the flag. You can be in
the parade,” she said, “but don’t carry the flag. You’ll be noticed. Don’t be noticed.”
The advice struck
a chord with me. I see that attitude
here.
When we received
our posting to serve in Kerch, one of the staff members said we were a good
choice for this community, a formerly closed military town, where outsiders are
still viewed with suspicion. The staffer
said we would project a professional and discrete image. People would learn to trust us.
And they
have. We generally project a
conservative image. Mark wears his dark suit and a tie to work each day, and I
wear business apparel too. But what set
us apart initially is this: we smile. We
are Americans, and Americans smile. Mark and I are not only Americans, are
happy, friendly Americans, so we smile a lot!
(I have been known to elbow Mark and whisper: “Stop smiling, you are
scaring the locals!)
There’s an old
expression: “Smile, it will make people wonder what you are up to.” It is true here in this former Soviet community!
It is not that the
Ukrainians have nothing to smile about, but in their experience, anything that
sets you apart, could cause trouble…serious trouble. Might as well be carrying that red flag at
the head of the parade!
It has been many
years since the fall of the USSR and Ukraine’s independence, but the people
still retain an over-developed sense of caution. People are uncomfortable if they are singled
out, separated from the crowd, culled from the flock. They do not like to stand out. Being different could get you killed
As our 27-months
draw to a close, we notice more young people breaking the mold, pushing the
envelope, trying out different looks.
Times are changing. Young people
are more willing to trust the future.
Some of them are
even smiling back at us as we go about our business.
These young people
are the future leaders. They can make changes.
Some of them may be less wary of carrying the flag, they may even be
eager to lead the parade.
But still, if no
one is willing to carry the flag, how can there be a parade?
·
Saturday, 7 April 2007
L. May Visit America in September!
It is a bit
premature to make plans, but we are delighted to know that L., the director of
Kerch Library Systems, may be selected for a professional visit to the
USA. She received the application this
week.
The application is
in Ukrainian. No one at the library (or
in this very-Russian community) speaks Ukrainian.
This language
challenge surfaces frequently.
By making
Ukrainian the official language, the many Russian speaking Ukrainians (mostly
in the East and Crimea) can not compete on equal footing for opportunities such
as attending university, working at jobs in the media, and in many other
arenas. This decision is divisive. It undermines progress. It limits options. It is a political tool.
Language should be
used to communicate, not alienate.
·
Friday, 6 April 2007 – Good Friday
Television
bombards us with images of crowed trains headed into the capital city
(Kiev). The political situation is
drawing big crowds. Politics as usual
here in Ukraine! There are tents scattered
across the areas outside the governmental buildings. Unhappy people wield
colorful banners and chant.
Though we are
interested in these dramatic events, our own needs surface. Will we be able to get train tickets to
Kiev? Will we find a flat for our ten
day stay?
Morning Routine…
I splash through
the morning dishes, wailing out bits and pieces of Janice Joplin songs.
I think about John
Steinbeck novels as I go through the almost-daily, bucket-laundry routine
(scrubbing, wringing, and setting things aside to soak – today it involves
washing two blankets, an effort equal to a workout at the gym!).
I sweep the floor
carpet with my broom. This act always makes me feel good…very self-righteous
actually; the “good homemaker smugness” that is so satisfying. (I have fleeting
thoughts of the amazing red-headed Brie (sp?) on Desperate Housewives).
Next, armed with
my magic bleach solution, I attack the scary window mold. I pause to observe the activities outside my
two windows on the world: cats in the courtyard and puppies on the street-side. Then I observe an older woman rounding the
corner and entering the courtyard across the street. She carries a large funeral wreath. I wonder who has died. And how they died. Life expectancy is very short here. Men and women die in their 50s and 60s.
·
Thursday, 5 April 2007
Easter should be in the air!
Living in the
post-Soviet era here in Crimea (and eastern Ukraine) is a significantly
different experience than living in western Ukraine, where the Catholic Church
and the Orthodox Church influence life more directly.
Easter here is
pretty low key. The Easter Bunny has not got a toe-hold yet. We do not know many people who attend
church. People quiz us on US Easter
traditions and the meaning of the holiday.
Yesterday we were surprised to learn the library will be closed Sunday and
Monday. Sunday is Easter, but why are they closed on Monday? Why
not close for Good Friday? English Club members indicated that Monday is
about "recovering"...this is likely to be true; the drinking culture
runs deep here. (Point in fact: morning cartoon show favorites include several
characters who happily wield large bottles of vodka or ”moonshine” and guzzle
it at will.).
Internet Availability…
With the library
closed on Sunday, my personal plans are disrupted. I usually frequent the Internet Center on Sunday
and do my online research. And now since
Mark cannot send my e-mail on Monday, it will be Tuesday before I can send or
collect e-mail. Soon we will be back in the USA; it will be nice to have
Internet access in my home.
Of course I can’t complain. Some PCVs in
Ukraine (in villages) do no have an Internet Center and do not (can not) use
the dial-up available (poor phone infra-structure makes it virtually
useless). Other PCVs have access at work places and others have sprung
for cable in their flats. (Our flat is in a dead zone - we cannot get
access due to infrastructure challenges.)
It is my opinion
that some PCVs are ambivalent about Internet access. They think having Internet
somehow invalidates their PC experience. Perhaps they want the isolation
and the opportunity to escape. There are also PCVs who join PC expecting
to tough it out without conveniences. It is like they expect to do
penance for their life of luxury in the USA. It is as if our service is
not as honorable unless we suffer. (I consider the dichotomy between the
libraries’ Internet Center and their outhouse in the courtyard. And who, PCV or otherwise, does NOT have a
cell phone?)
Conditions in Ukraine, like conditions anywhere in the world, are uneven and
there are pockets where people are extremely isolated and under-served. (In our
case, the community we live in is, in my humble opinion, a step up in many
quality of life areas, from the community we lived in the USA!)
There are PCVs,
particularly those in Eastern Europe (EE), who seem almost apologetic about
their lifestyles. (Among some PCVs there
are jokes about the Posh Corps”) While
most of us do not haul our water, wash our clothes in a creek (I use buckets!),
cut our own wood and cook over a fire, we do face daily disappointments and
challenges when we expect to have light, heat, water, etc and the
infrastructure fails us. (Side note:
These days, there are few PCVs anywhere in the world who on a daily basis
actually face most of the challenges listed…they are exposed to extremes, and
some elect a more modest lifestyle of course, but PC establishes reasonable
minimum standards…)
Many of the
challenges here (EE) come from our expectations. We initially see a people who
appear very much like us, the cultural similarities are fairly evident. This is
deceptive. We are caught off guard by what sets us apart as a people and
a culture. There is much below the surface (values, politics, traditions,
norms and mores, etc...). We must discover this and gain a deeper knowledge and
respect for the country and the people. In countries where immediate
appearances have us believe we are very different from the people and their
culture, we approach life from the opposite perspective.
This PC experience has been interesting. I am fascinated to observe
fellow Americans as they immerse themselves (or not!) in another culture. Many
arrive with agendas, expecting to change the world and in fact, depart changed
themselves. Some are disappointed. Their ideas are not embraced. They feel they
have failed. Their performance measures may be inappropriate.
As I have said
before: it is in sowing the seeds that we make a difference. We prepare
the soil and scatter seeds. We are not here to reap the harvest.
It is time for coffee...and to rinse clothes in a bucket (if there is water).
·
Wednesday, 4 April 2007
The President of Ukraine Disbanded
Parliament (the Rada)!
We now live in a
country with no rule; in a manner of speaking anyway. Elections will be held in late May (27th?). The opposition party does not plan to honor
the Presidents’ edict.
This should be
quite a wrestling match. (Or maybe I should say punching match, since these
legislators seem prone to fisticuffs!)
The experience of
living here (and our experiences in Franco-era Spain) makes me really wonder
how our leaders in the USA ever managed to reach consensus and establish a rule
of law. Did George Washington literally
duke it out with some of our illustrious forefathers?
Some of the Facts of Life Here, or Things I
will Not Miss…
I read another PCV
couple’s blog about their recent visit to the bleak, impoverished, coalmining
towns of eastern Ukraine and the trials PCVs face there. It made me mindful about the things we seldom
speak about. We often paint a cheerful
picture of life, but some of the facts of life remain quietly tucked away. The things you just deal with. The cumulative effects can be disheartening.
In fairness, I
must preface my comments with this note: every place I have lived has/had
annoyances and challenging aspects. In
my American experiences we faced urban crime, the homeless, the drug culture,
rednecks…
I am not whining,
simply making observations for the record.
I am not a curmudgeonly, pessimistic person, grousing unpleasantly about
things and commenting sarcastically or bitterly on life’s wrongs. I am more of a Pollyanna-Pulver-person,
counting blessings and finding good.
(Oh, it is not
that I do not see the negative, it is more that I refuse to let the negative elements
effect who I am and what I experience – I choose joy, and cultivate happiness
and it responds! Much in Life is about
conscious choices! These challenges are like the tares mixed in with the wheat
– in the end the tares will be nothing, but the wheat will nourish …)
I have loved my
life here, but as our time draws to a close, I am increasingly aware of small
annoyances, which I will be glad to put behind me.
Following, in no
particular order, are my top 5 inconveniences (or character-building events)…
1. Mold and mildew. Fighting these outbreaks is a nuisance, a
constant battle –our clothing, shoes, walls…sigh… I am armed and vigilant – spray bottle of
bleach solution in hand!)
2.
Slugs in the water. And crawling out of the drains. And crawling
across our kitchen floor. Like the mold
and mildew, this is somewhat seasonal, but these slimy creatures are
disturbing.
3. The tap water. My
hair, skin, teeth and clothing do not like it.
It is filled with minerals (iron and limestone) and, on occasion, the
aforementioned slugs as well as other unidentifiable solids. The water leaves a reddish residue on
everything it touches – our shower stall, new when we arrived, appears filthy,
despite my compulsive, obsessive and consistent scrubbing.
4.
Water (unexpected) outages. The tap water may not be pleasant, but it is
a challenge to deal without it and the unexpected outages are disruptive. Days at a stretch with no water for bathing,
flushing, laundry, cooking… (At least in the villages there might be a few
wells where one could draw water!)
5.
Power (unexpected) outages. Oh let’s just say the whole deteriorating
infrastructure… from crumbling apartment buildings, to overworked heating
plants…
I could include
drunks, open-manholes, dark streets, litter, … and there are the personal and
cultural challenges (pit toilets, unemployment, inflation, language,
attitudes…)
So I have jumped
from small inconveniences to larger issues as I ramble on, letting my fingers
fly and my head spill out thoughts, unfiltered, at will…
Let me clearly
state, Ukraine has no corner on the market for problems. The local mayor is to be commended on his
proactive efforts to upgrade the quality of life here…this is a very pleasant,
progressive place to live. Against
tremendous odds, this community is advancing, while our last stateside
community has stagnated and ignores some truly frightening issues.
When we return to
the USA, there will be issues…and many of them will just be slight variations
on the same theme! I recently visited my
nephew’s blog and viewed his telling photo essay of his neighborhood in
America’s heartland. http://www.radloffs.net/blog.html
Life everywhere
has challenges.
We just learn to
change what we can and graciously take the rest in stride.
The BBC News Take on Local Politics…
Ukrainian President Viktor Yushchenko has dissolved parliament and
called a snap election, in an escalation of the country's political
crisis.
The announcement followed seven hours of talks between Mr Yushchenko
and parliamentary leaders.
The move comes amid a long-running power struggle between the pro-
Western president and pro-Russian Prime Minister Viktor Yanukovych.
Parliament has vowed to defy the president and continue its work.
Analysts say the move is likely to plunge Ukraine into political
turmoil.
Rival rallies
Mr Yushchenko accuses Mr Yanukovych of trying to expand his power
base and usurp his power.
"My actions are dictated by the strict necessity to save the state's
sovereignty and territorial integrity," he said in his televised
address to the nation. "It is not only my right, it is my
obligation."
He has signed a decree setting elections for 27 May.
But lawmakers in parliament - where Mr Yanukovych holds a majority -
backed a resolution stating that parliament would continue to
function.
Supporters of Mr Yanukovych have vowed to defy the president's
decision, setting up tents in parks outside parliament.
Over the weekend, tens of thousands of supporters of both factions
turned out on the streets of Kiev for rival rallies.
Mr Yushchenko defeated Mr Yanukovych in the presidential election of
January 2005, following the pro-democracy Orange Revolution.
But he was forced to accept him as the head of government after his
allies failed to win a majority in the March 2006 parliamentary
election.
Story from BBC NEWS:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/pr/fr/-/2/hi/europe/6519951.stm
XXX
·
Tuesday, 3 April 2007 – Only 27 Days
Remaining!
We leave Kerch for the last time 4 weeks
from today.
I am
restless. As the days melt away in the
Spring sun, I find it increasingly difficult to stay focused or feel much
urgency about things.
Mark continues to
have a good pace. He interacts with students.
My current
projects, on the other hand, are mostly self-directed and solitary.
I manage to move
forward a bit each day, but I seem to work better if I have a mix of
tasks.
What I need is a
good dog-walk!
I need a dog!
If I had ”do-overs” I think I would have a
dog here. I should have just had Miss
Zoë Mae shipped to me when I returned.
She would have been a real asset with her gentle manner and her
attractive physique.
A dog provides
excellent companionship and allows a person to stroll about with some impunity.
I always feel more comfortable poking around the community if I have a dog
along. Of course a dog offers a modicum
of protection from those who are a bit wary of canines, but a dog also often
invites some pleasant interactions too.
The dog-walking
routine is also great for keeping fit.
Of course being a
pet-owner (and a PCV) can involve some challenges. PCVs travel frequently and
travel is on public transportation.
There are unavoidable work-related trips as well as training, medical
and pleasure trips. Finding a suitable “pet-sitter” in under-served countries
is problematic. Finding pet supplies can be tough too. In some places having an indoor pet is
considered odd or inappropriate. It may
not be considered culturally-sensitive since we Americans treat our pets better
than humans treat one another in some countries! I have read some sad PCV tales about
unfortunate pet incidents in other countries
I know of one PCV
who had her dog shipped from the USA. I
also know several PCVs who took cats home to the USA and others who have passed
on their cat-flat mates to other PCVs when the time came to return stateside.
One PCV I know has what she calls a “decorative bunny” as a companion.
Today a dog-walk
is just what I need to raise my spirits and motivate me. Instead, I am tapping away here on my lap
top…
(Following is a
Zoë tale, part of the Zoë Chronicles, that was in the Greenwood paper, Fall
2003.)
·
Monday, 2 April 2007
UA Politics …
Friday night we
received a call from our warden (a PCV designated to be responsible for some of
the security procedures). We were
advised to avoid large gatherings or groups.
Internal political violence is possible, but it is not directed toward
Americans. According to the news,
security measures were in place to search passengers traveling on inbound (to
Kiev) trains, buses and subways. They
were looking for weapons.
There is lots of
drama in politics here. Things escalate
quickly and often become physical. Tensions are running high now. There are many issues that need attention,
but the focus is on who will take the lead.
US Politics…
Saturday we visited a 9th Century
Armenian Church. As we stepped into the cool, dark interior of this ancient
edifice, an older gentleman met us at the door to offer us candles.
Upon learning we
are American, he hurried off to get his daily newspaper, the ”Crimean
Pravda”. He thrust the paper into our
hands and pointed at the story in question.
We stood under the peeling fresco dome of the church, poring over the
paper. As we deciphered the written
Russian, he shared his opinions on the topic.
According to the paper, on 6 April, the USA will begin a 12-hour bombing
campaign (Operation Vinegar) on Iran!
I lit my candle
and said a silent prayer as I pushed the taper deep into the white sand. Outside in the garden, I could hear the
tranquil sound of cooing doves.
The doves bring me
into the present and remind me that it is wise to deny false evidence quickly
and to move on with the joys of life, the true things in life. It is easy to
become fearful, drawn in by propaganda and distorted tales. When these illusions conquer your calm trust
in good, God, then it becomes difficult to function effectively.
I stare at the
candle flame and say another prayer of gratitude.
·
Sunday, 1 April 2007 - April Fool’s Day &
Palm Sunday
In Ukraine, it is Day of Humor & Willow
Sunday!
The church bells
clang and resonate over the sea. The sound echoes off Mitridate Mount. On the
grassy hillside, a few goats savor fresh grass.
On the street, people walk with a spring in their steps. The sky is blue
and the air is brisk, but warm enough to lure many people into leaving their
hats behind. And of course the young women, eager to show off their spring
clothes (and their long legs), are out in mini-skirts and fishnet stockings.
Today, lots of
people carry a few pussy willow branches.
In the bazaar, babushkas do a brisk business selling pussy willow
branches. It is Willow Sunday here and
next week will be Orthodox Easter. In 2007, Orthodox Easter coincides with our
Easter. About every 25 years the two calendars coincide.
In western
Ukraine, the churches are more integrated into life. There are celebrations and
many traditions. Here, we still feel the
coolness from the shadow of the Soviet/Communist/Russian past.
Here is a real
cultural dichotomy that goes far beyond just language differences.
We did not
experience any evidence of Day of Humor this year…
Suicides & Unexpected Deaths in
Ukraine…
A PCV we visited
Saturday observed that the suicide rate here is very high among older
women. The newspaper publishes a daily
column titled: Unexpected Deaths; a term which covers accidents, fires, violent
deaths, including suicide. They use a
curious expression for suicide that roughly translates as: ”She made herself
calm (or she stilled herself).”
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TO READ
MARCH POSTS OR OTHER OLDER ENTRIES,
RETURN TO
THE ARCHIVES ON THE LEFT.
FYI: If
you want to read about our initial Peace Corps adventures, you can start with
our in January 2005; that’s when we received our invitation to Ukraine!
ab